I’ve been meaning to write about Pierre Quinonero at Domaine de la Garance for a while now, as it is a little time since my visit. He has seven hectares outside the village of Caux, planted with Carignan, Syrah, Grenache Noir, Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc, Grenache Gris and Pinot Noir, on four different soils, limestone, clay and limestone, basalt and villefranchien.
Some wine growers have the same profile as their wines – is this the equivalent of dogs looking like their owners? Pierre Quinonero is a stocky, well built guy with a friendly smile, and his wines do have a solid chunky character about them. And he is a mine of information, so tasting with him was great fun. He explained how garance is the plant which provides purple dye – his vineyard of Ugni Blanc was covered with it – and hence the name of this estate. Most of his wines take their name from local legends and stories of the Languedoc. And for somebody born and bred in the warm south, he admitted that he does not like the heat, and wants to retire to either Scotland or North Yorkshire! Indeed he greatly regretted that he has never had the opportunity to play rugby in either place.
2008 les Armières, Coteaux du Languedoc The Armières were witches or sorcières.
90% Carignan and 10% Syrah with a three month cuvaison, malo on the skins, and 24 months in wood without any racking. 14º Deep colour. Quite solidly oaky on the nose, and on the palate a firm tannic streak, with ripe fruit and notes of chocolate and liqueur cherries. Ripe and powerful, and still very young.
2000 les Armières, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault - 20.00€
Again 90% Carignan and 10% Syrah. That is the way the vines were planted in the vineyard. But the wine is vin de pays rather than an appellation, as ten years ago Pierre had more vineyards, and more Carignan, and consequently too much Carignan for the appellation. It’s the percentage in the vineyard that matters rather than the percentage in the wine.
The colour was obviously less intense than the 2008, and the wine was more elegant. Pierre commented that 2000 was a quite a fresh year, with some rain, whereas 2008 was warmer, so that the wines had more substance. There was some dry cassis fruit as well as some firm tannins and a leathery note, with quite an elegant finish. The wine was still quite youthful.
Pierre has some ten vintages on sales – observing we vignerons have to do the work that the wine shops don’t do – it’s more elegant in French: on fait le travail que les cavistes ne font pas.
2010 Pinot Noir, Vin de France – 12€
This enjoys a two day cuvaison and then the grapes are pressed and the juice fermented in barrel with natural yeast. It is bottled the following February, after the malo-lactic fermentation. Think of it as as the Languedoc’s answer to Beaujolais, for it was certainly fresh and fruity, with notes of liqueur cherries, griottes, with some acidity. Pierre’s vineyard of Pinot Noir is grown on granite, up in a cooler part of the Languedoc at Colombiers-sur-Orb. The vineyard is just below the Caroux, so it enjoys cool evenings, making for a fresh style of wine, enhancing the côté mineral. And the grapes are picked a month later than in Caux.
He also has some Chardonnay in the same vineyard, which was planted in 2000. The style of wine he makes depends on the vintage. In the best years it is les Vargues, and in lighter years A Clara, who is his oldest daughter. The Vargues were the people who rode horses in the mines – a grandfather mined in Spain, and then in retirement worked in the vineyard.
2008 les Vargues, Vin de pays de l’Hérault, with eighteen months élevage.
Quite golden in colour. And intriguingly oaky on the nose, with layers of texture balanced with good acidity. There is 30% new oak; the wine undergoes a malo-lactic fermentation; there is regular bâttonage, but no racking, fining or filtering, or chilling. It is all very natural, and for Pierre an expression of Chardonnay from granite. He first made this cuvée in 2002, and subsequently in 2003, 2006 2007 and 2008, but there is none in 2009 or 2010.
2010 A Clara – 12€
This enjoys the same vinification, but only spends seven months in wood. I didn’t think the bottle I tasted was showing very well, so I won’t bore you with my tasting notes.
2009 Claviers Vin d Pays de l’Hérault– 20€
A blend of 60% Ugni Blanc, with 40% Grenache Gris and just a drop of Clairette. There is no chilling and only natural yeast. The juice is put straight into barriques and the wine given nine months in old wood. It was very intriguing. The colour was old gold and the nose was not very expressive. On the palate it was quite soft, with notes of hazelnuts, and rounded, with a bite on the finish.
And we finished with 2002 A Coline, Coteaux du Languedoc – 40€ and a heady 16º. It is pure Grenache Noir, grown on clay and limestone and harvested quite late. It had spent five years in old barrels, without any topping up. And the taste was very intriguing. There were some dry leathery notes on the nose, and one the palate it was concentrated and long with some firm cherry fruit. Definitely not mainstream, but an example of the unexpected flavours you can find in the Languedoc.
I enjoyed my afternoon with Pierre – he is passionately enthusiastic about his work, with a wonderfully original streak of creativity.
Friday, 17 February 2012
Monday, 13 February 2012
TASTING ROUSSILLON CHEZ RAEBURN FINE WINES
Raeburn Fine Wines shop in Edinburgh comes into the category of ‘once visited, never forgotten’. I had never seen quite so many bottles crammed into such a small space ..... and what bottles. So when an invitation arrived for a tasting in London, I accepted with alacrity. This was no ordinary tasting, but a series of verticals from some of the many fine estates that they follow. There was Dry River from New Zealand, the most delicious Pouilly Fuissé from Saumaize-Michelin, some amazing Ribolla Gialla from Josko Gravner - wines that are aged on their skins in amphora for eight months – some elegant Nebbiolo from Luca Roagna and some extraordinary sherries and Pedro Ximenez from Lorenzo de Soto. And for the purposes of this blog, an estate in Roussillon that was unknown to me: Clot de l’Origine in the village of Maury.
This is one of the many new estates of the village. Marc Barriot made his first vintage in 2004. Unfortunately the bad weather had kept him in France, so he was unavailable for questions at the tasting. Apparently he studied at Toulouse and worked in Bandol for ten years before settling in Roussillon. He has 17 different plots, totaling 10.5 hectares, not just in Maury, but also in nearby villages, Calce, Estagel, Montner and Latour de France. All are farmed biodynamically. What I really loved about the red wines was their wonderful freshness, that is relatively atypical for Roussillon. But first there were white wines, Les Quilles Libres. Prices are Raeburn Fine Wines’ retail price, but not every vintage is available.
2010 Les Quilles Libres, Côtes Catalanes
A blend of Grenache Gris and Blanc,
Light golden colour. Quite a rich resinous nose. Very texured, with layers of flavours. Notes of dry honey; a dry but rich palate. Lovely mouth feel. It was a great start to the whole tasting.
2009 - £18.50
Grenache Gris, Côtes Catalanes
A more delicate nose, compared to the 2010. Drier, more herbal notes on the nose. And the palate was tighter, less resinous, with more acidity. A dry finish, and again some intriguing layers of flavour.
2008 – There were two wines from the 2008 vintage, each with a slightly different élevage.
Lot 1 - £17.50
This is how Marc explained the vinification process, by email: Pressing on 7th September and the clear juice goes into two 400 litre barrels. The wine is aged until end of May in barrel, and then transferred in tank without fining and filtration, and left to settle for 2 months. He usually adds 20 mg of sulphur at that time. Bottling is done by hand in August, and then the wine is left to settle for ten months before release.
Delicate herbal nose. Lightly nutty palate; elegantly rich, with good acidity. Elegantly balanced, with a fresh mineral finish. The oak is beautifully integrated.
Lot 3
Was kept in old Bandol tonneaux for three months. Quite a firm nose. Curiously I found a touch of newer oak on the nose, compared to Lot 1. Altogether tighter, firmer and more youthful. A tight knit and structured palate, with possibly longer ageing potential.
2007
Light golden. Rich and resinous on the palate. Good fruit, with layers of flavour. Evolving beautifully, but with quite an oaky finish.
2006
Light amber colour. Lovely dry nutty mineral notes on the nose, and even more so on the palate. Very good acidity. And very intriguing. One of those wines that keeps you guessing.
And then on to the reds, which were either Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Côtes du Roussillon, or in one instance just plain vin de table. And there was also a Côtes Catalanes. Essentially the wines are a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah.
2010 Soif de Plaisir
Medium colour. Fresh red fruit on the nose. Quite a firm mineral palate with good fruit, supple tannins and a dry finish. The hallmark of these wines was elegance, comparing favourably to some of the more opulent and alcoholic wines that can come from Roussillon.
2009 Soif de Plaisir - £14.50
Light delicate nose contrasting with a richer fuller palate. Quite a dry leathery note on the palate, and a touch of warmth. Quite a firm finish.
2008 - £13.99
Medium colour. Quite an elegant nose, with elegant red fruit. Drinking very nicely, with some firm dry fruit and a touch of minerality. Very satisfying with lots of nuances to discover.
2007
Good colour. Quite a rich nose, but quire full and leathery. Nicely maturing fruit, dry and leathery with quite a rich mouth-filling finish.
2006
Medium colour. Quite a firm stony mineral nose. Again quite a firm palate; mineral notes. Quite tight knit with a dry leathery note and good depth and a long finish.
2005
Good depth of fruit on the nose, quite rich and leathery, with rich dry spice on the palate and some lovely fruit. Drinking very well now.
2004
Côtes Catalanes - £11.99
Medium colour. Quite a fresh spicy nose, with more mature, leathery notes on the palate. Quite a firm finish, and drinking very well.
www.vin-de-l-origine.com
www.raeburnfinewines.com
This is one of the many new estates of the village. Marc Barriot made his first vintage in 2004. Unfortunately the bad weather had kept him in France, so he was unavailable for questions at the tasting. Apparently he studied at Toulouse and worked in Bandol for ten years before settling in Roussillon. He has 17 different plots, totaling 10.5 hectares, not just in Maury, but also in nearby villages, Calce, Estagel, Montner and Latour de France. All are farmed biodynamically. What I really loved about the red wines was their wonderful freshness, that is relatively atypical for Roussillon. But first there were white wines, Les Quilles Libres. Prices are Raeburn Fine Wines’ retail price, but not every vintage is available.
2010 Les Quilles Libres, Côtes Catalanes
A blend of Grenache Gris and Blanc,
Light golden colour. Quite a rich resinous nose. Very texured, with layers of flavours. Notes of dry honey; a dry but rich palate. Lovely mouth feel. It was a great start to the whole tasting.
2009 - £18.50
Grenache Gris, Côtes Catalanes
A more delicate nose, compared to the 2010. Drier, more herbal notes on the nose. And the palate was tighter, less resinous, with more acidity. A dry finish, and again some intriguing layers of flavour.
2008 – There were two wines from the 2008 vintage, each with a slightly different élevage.
Lot 1 - £17.50
This is how Marc explained the vinification process, by email: Pressing on 7th September and the clear juice goes into two 400 litre barrels. The wine is aged until end of May in barrel, and then transferred in tank without fining and filtration, and left to settle for 2 months. He usually adds 20 mg of sulphur at that time. Bottling is done by hand in August, and then the wine is left to settle for ten months before release.
Delicate herbal nose. Lightly nutty palate; elegantly rich, with good acidity. Elegantly balanced, with a fresh mineral finish. The oak is beautifully integrated.
Lot 3
Was kept in old Bandol tonneaux for three months. Quite a firm nose. Curiously I found a touch of newer oak on the nose, compared to Lot 1. Altogether tighter, firmer and more youthful. A tight knit and structured palate, with possibly longer ageing potential.
2007
Light golden. Rich and resinous on the palate. Good fruit, with layers of flavour. Evolving beautifully, but with quite an oaky finish.
2006
Light amber colour. Lovely dry nutty mineral notes on the nose, and even more so on the palate. Very good acidity. And very intriguing. One of those wines that keeps you guessing.
And then on to the reds, which were either Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Côtes du Roussillon, or in one instance just plain vin de table. And there was also a Côtes Catalanes. Essentially the wines are a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah.
2010 Soif de Plaisir
Medium colour. Fresh red fruit on the nose. Quite a firm mineral palate with good fruit, supple tannins and a dry finish. The hallmark of these wines was elegance, comparing favourably to some of the more opulent and alcoholic wines that can come from Roussillon.
2009 Soif de Plaisir - £14.50
Light delicate nose contrasting with a richer fuller palate. Quite a dry leathery note on the palate, and a touch of warmth. Quite a firm finish.
2008 - £13.99
Medium colour. Quite an elegant nose, with elegant red fruit. Drinking very nicely, with some firm dry fruit and a touch of minerality. Very satisfying with lots of nuances to discover.
2007
Good colour. Quite a rich nose, but quire full and leathery. Nicely maturing fruit, dry and leathery with quite a rich mouth-filling finish.
2006
Medium colour. Quite a firm stony mineral nose. Again quite a firm palate; mineral notes. Quite tight knit with a dry leathery note and good depth and a long finish.
2005
Good depth of fruit on the nose, quite rich and leathery, with rich dry spice on the palate and some lovely fruit. Drinking very well now.
2004
Côtes Catalanes - £11.99
Medium colour. Quite a fresh spicy nose, with more mature, leathery notes on the palate. Quite a firm finish, and drinking very well.
www.vin-de-l-origine.com
www.raeburnfinewines.com
Wednesday, 8 February 2012
MORE VIGNERONS INDEPENDENTS
A couple more estates from the tasting des Vignerons Independents at Lords, before moving on elsewhere.
DOMAINE DES GRANDES COSTES
An estate at Vacquières, with vines in three villages, Vacquières, Corconne and Sauteyrargues Jean-Christophe Garnier explained that he and his brother Guillaume have 14 hectares and bottled their first wine in 2000. For the moment Vacquières in not part of the Pic St. Loup but that will change in 2014. Pic St. Loup should also be recognised as an appellation in its own right for the 2013 vintage and they are also working towards a white Pic St. Loup. At the moment any white wine is Coteaux du Languedoc or vin de pays, or IGP.
2010 Coteaux du Languedoc. Musardises 9.00€
A blend of 70% Cinsaut with 15% each Grenache and Syrah. Attractive perfumed nose, very Cinsaut. Quite ripe spicy confit palate. Quite supple and rounded. Easy drinking
2008 Coteaux du Languedoc, la Sarabande – 12€
25% each of Cinsaut, Grenache Noir, Syrah and Carignan, with 24 months in vat. I thought the nose a touch reduced, but liked the palate a lot. Nice rounded fruit, quite supple with a streak of tannin. A sunny wine.
2009 Pic St. Loup - 18€
Half and half Syrah and Grenache – eighteen month élevage. 60% in wood. Quite ripe and perfumed with an oaky streak. On the palate I found that the oak needs time to tone down, as the wine has only just been bottled. So a bit adolescent, but with plenty of potential.
2006 Coteaux du Languedoc 7 Rangées. 35€
A blend of Syrah and Grenache. This has spent 24 months in new wood, and is then given 12 months ageing in bottle before release. I tend to be a bit allergic to new oak, but this really worked. It comes from one small plot, rather than just seven rows. Quite a ripe rounded spicy nose. Some attractive leathery notes on the palate. The oak is nicely integrated and the wine is evolving in a very satisfying way, showing some lovely fruit.
CHATEAU DE CABRIAC
I don’t normally associate Corbières with white wine; white is part of the appellation but in pretty limited quantity. However, I’ve had a soft spot for the white wine of Château de Cabriac for a few years, so was very pleased to have the chance to taste the 2011, a blend of Grenache, Roussanne and Rolle. 6.90€. The wine was not yet bottled, but it had already developed some attractive ripe rounded fruit, with some hints of white blossom, though it still had a slight adolescent note, which will obviously disappear once it has settled in bottle.
2009 Corbières Tradition – 6/.60€
This was showing very well, with some fresh spicy fruit on the nose, and a satisfyingly rounded palate, with some ripe fruit and a leathery finish. Quite a gutsy Corbières, but at the same time quite accessible.
DOMAINE DES GRANDES COSTES
An estate at Vacquières, with vines in three villages, Vacquières, Corconne and Sauteyrargues Jean-Christophe Garnier explained that he and his brother Guillaume have 14 hectares and bottled their first wine in 2000. For the moment Vacquières in not part of the Pic St. Loup but that will change in 2014. Pic St. Loup should also be recognised as an appellation in its own right for the 2013 vintage and they are also working towards a white Pic St. Loup. At the moment any white wine is Coteaux du Languedoc or vin de pays, or IGP.
2010 Coteaux du Languedoc. Musardises 9.00€
A blend of 70% Cinsaut with 15% each Grenache and Syrah. Attractive perfumed nose, very Cinsaut. Quite ripe spicy confit palate. Quite supple and rounded. Easy drinking
2008 Coteaux du Languedoc, la Sarabande – 12€
25% each of Cinsaut, Grenache Noir, Syrah and Carignan, with 24 months in vat. I thought the nose a touch reduced, but liked the palate a lot. Nice rounded fruit, quite supple with a streak of tannin. A sunny wine.
2009 Pic St. Loup - 18€
Half and half Syrah and Grenache – eighteen month élevage. 60% in wood. Quite ripe and perfumed with an oaky streak. On the palate I found that the oak needs time to tone down, as the wine has only just been bottled. So a bit adolescent, but with plenty of potential.
2006 Coteaux du Languedoc 7 Rangées. 35€
A blend of Syrah and Grenache. This has spent 24 months in new wood, and is then given 12 months ageing in bottle before release. I tend to be a bit allergic to new oak, but this really worked. It comes from one small plot, rather than just seven rows. Quite a ripe rounded spicy nose. Some attractive leathery notes on the palate. The oak is nicely integrated and the wine is evolving in a very satisfying way, showing some lovely fruit.
CHATEAU DE CABRIAC
I don’t normally associate Corbières with white wine; white is part of the appellation but in pretty limited quantity. However, I’ve had a soft spot for the white wine of Château de Cabriac for a few years, so was very pleased to have the chance to taste the 2011, a blend of Grenache, Roussanne and Rolle. 6.90€. The wine was not yet bottled, but it had already developed some attractive ripe rounded fruit, with some hints of white blossom, though it still had a slight adolescent note, which will obviously disappear once it has settled in bottle.
2009 Corbières Tradition – 6/.60€
This was showing very well, with some fresh spicy fruit on the nose, and a satisfyingly rounded palate, with some ripe fruit and a leathery finish. Quite a gutsy Corbières, but at the same time quite accessible.
Tuesday, 7 February 2012
AUBAI MEMA
Mark Haynes is an Englishman with a wine estate in the village Aubais outside Nimes. His wines are usually IGP Pays d’Oc. He bought ten hectares back in 2002, which he is now in the process of converting to organic viticulture.. I enjoyed the wines of Aubai Mema and thought they deserved to be better known. Mark would say that he aims for ‘minimum intervention and maximum expression’.
2010 Albion, a blend of Chardonnay and Viognier - 12.00€
Light colour; delicate nose, lightly buttery, with a peachy hint from the Viognier, and a firm finish.
More characterful was a Chardonnay vin de table, with some ripe leesy fruit. Mark gives it lots of lees stirring in vat and it has some lovely textured flavours. A Chardonnay with an attitude. 7.50€
2010 Liverna – 6.00€
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 20% Grenache and 10% Merlot, kept in old wood. Designed for easy drinking, with some ripe fruit, soft tannins and a rounded finish.
2010 L’Insoumise – 9.00€
From 60 year old Carignan vines. Half maceration carbonique and half a traditional fermentation, in old wood. Quite firm and structured, with a tannin streak, balanced with some fresh cherry fruit. Some ageing potential.
2008 Grenade – 9.00€
From old Grenache vines, 55 years or more. Spends six months in wood. Some cherry fruit on the nose, with a touch of oak, and more oak on the palate.
I preferred the 2010 Grenade, with was fresher and riper, with more integrated oak.
2006 La Douzième - 12.00€
Syrah with a touch of Viognier, co-fermented, as in Côte Rôtie. Quite a firm leathery nose, with some ripe spicy fruit, and more leathery notes on the palate. Still quite youthful, with a streak of tannin. Mark was still using 225 litres barriques in 2006. For his 2010 he used only demi-muids of 500 litres.
The 2010 was more perfumed on the nose, with some ripe spicy fruit. Quite a fleshy palate, ripe and perfumed. Some of the Syrah, two barrels worth, was fermented by carbonic maceration, which may enhance the perfume.
2009 Lunatico, Vin de France. 24€
From old Grenache, 55 years or more, grown on north facing slopes, given 18 months élevage. Medium colour; elegantly understated nose and palate. Very good balance of fruit and oak. A tannic streak. Plenty of potential for development in the bottle.
www.aubaimema.com
2010 Albion, a blend of Chardonnay and Viognier - 12.00€
Light colour; delicate nose, lightly buttery, with a peachy hint from the Viognier, and a firm finish.
More characterful was a Chardonnay vin de table, with some ripe leesy fruit. Mark gives it lots of lees stirring in vat and it has some lovely textured flavours. A Chardonnay with an attitude. 7.50€
2010 Liverna – 6.00€
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 20% Grenache and 10% Merlot, kept in old wood. Designed for easy drinking, with some ripe fruit, soft tannins and a rounded finish.
2010 L’Insoumise – 9.00€
From 60 year old Carignan vines. Half maceration carbonique and half a traditional fermentation, in old wood. Quite firm and structured, with a tannin streak, balanced with some fresh cherry fruit. Some ageing potential.
2008 Grenade – 9.00€
From old Grenache vines, 55 years or more. Spends six months in wood. Some cherry fruit on the nose, with a touch of oak, and more oak on the palate.
I preferred the 2010 Grenade, with was fresher and riper, with more integrated oak.
2006 La Douzième - 12.00€
Syrah with a touch of Viognier, co-fermented, as in Côte Rôtie. Quite a firm leathery nose, with some ripe spicy fruit, and more leathery notes on the palate. Still quite youthful, with a streak of tannin. Mark was still using 225 litres barriques in 2006. For his 2010 he used only demi-muids of 500 litres.
The 2010 was more perfumed on the nose, with some ripe spicy fruit. Quite a fleshy palate, ripe and perfumed. Some of the Syrah, two barrels worth, was fermented by carbonic maceration, which may enhance the perfume.
2009 Lunatico, Vin de France. 24€
From old Grenache, 55 years or more, grown on north facing slopes, given 18 months élevage. Medium colour; elegantly understated nose and palate. Very good balance of fruit and oak. A tannic streak. Plenty of potential for development in the bottle.
www.aubaimema.com
Thursday, 2 February 2012
MAS AMIEL
To continue with Roussillon, a great range from Mas Amiel, as always. It fully deserves its reputation as one of the leading producers of Maury.
2009 Plaisir Blanc, Côtes du Roussillon
A blend of 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Maccabeu and 15% each of Marsanne and Roussanne.
Quite solid, rich and rounded, with a slightly resinous note on both nose and palate. Layers of flavours. Potential to develop in the bottle.
2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Notre Terre. 13€
One third each of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. The Syrah and Carignan are fermented in wood, and then blended with the Grenache, and aged in concrete tanks. Lovely ripe fruit. Ripe and spicy with a fresh edge. Rich and elegant. Wonderfully southern.
And then on to the Vins Doux:
2009 Maury Vintage – their best known wine. – 15.50€
Grenache aged for a few months in concrete tanks and then bottled. Intense ripe fruit on the nose. Rich cherry flavours; red fruit and chocolate. Quite intense. Rich and spicy with length, and some alcohol on the finish.
2007 Maury, Charles Dupuy – 32€
Named after the man who established the original reputation of Mas Amiel, when it was the only estate of any note in Maury. A selection of the oldest vines, Grenache that are 50 years old and more. Bottled in 2009. The élevage includes a few months in wood. Much richer and more concentrated on the palate, with a dry edge on the finish. I preferred the simpler wine.
But best of all was 1975 Maury – 50€
The traditional rancio style, Red tawny colour. Rich nutty, with some red fruit and an edge of acidity and a steak of tannin. Still remarkably young. Powerful and elegant. Lots of nuances and complexity. Combines power and elegance. Classic Maury and absolutely delicious.
And to finish. 2009 Muscat de Rivesaltes, a blend of both Muscat a petits grains and Muscat d’Alexandrie. 13€
Ripe and sweet, grapey fruit and the typical slightly bitter finish of Muscat.
2009 Plaisir Blanc, Côtes du Roussillon
A blend of 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Maccabeu and 15% each of Marsanne and Roussanne.
Quite solid, rich and rounded, with a slightly resinous note on both nose and palate. Layers of flavours. Potential to develop in the bottle.
2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Notre Terre. 13€
One third each of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. The Syrah and Carignan are fermented in wood, and then blended with the Grenache, and aged in concrete tanks. Lovely ripe fruit. Ripe and spicy with a fresh edge. Rich and elegant. Wonderfully southern.
And then on to the Vins Doux:
2009 Maury Vintage – their best known wine. – 15.50€
Grenache aged for a few months in concrete tanks and then bottled. Intense ripe fruit on the nose. Rich cherry flavours; red fruit and chocolate. Quite intense. Rich and spicy with length, and some alcohol on the finish.
2007 Maury, Charles Dupuy – 32€
Named after the man who established the original reputation of Mas Amiel, when it was the only estate of any note in Maury. A selection of the oldest vines, Grenache that are 50 years old and more. Bottled in 2009. The élevage includes a few months in wood. Much richer and more concentrated on the palate, with a dry edge on the finish. I preferred the simpler wine.
But best of all was 1975 Maury – 50€
The traditional rancio style, Red tawny colour. Rich nutty, with some red fruit and an edge of acidity and a steak of tannin. Still remarkably young. Powerful and elegant. Lots of nuances and complexity. Combines power and elegance. Classic Maury and absolutely delicious.
And to finish. 2009 Muscat de Rivesaltes, a blend of both Muscat a petits grains and Muscat d’Alexandrie. 13€
Ripe and sweet, grapey fruit and the typical slightly bitter finish of Muscat.
Wednesday, 1 February 2012
DOMAINE MASTRIO
Another new estate in Roussillon, in Ille sur Tet, within Côtes du Roussillon Caramany. I talked to Caty Dhoine Paetzold; she is Belgian and her husband comes from Germany. They made their first wine, just 1000 bottles in 2006 and have 20 hectares. Caty admitted that their yields are miniscule, 15 hl/ha. And their vines range in age from 25 to 102 years old.
We began with a rosé, 2010 Libertine – 11€ - made from Carignan, from grapes that are pressed. Pale orange pink colour. Very ripe and vinous. Quite a heavy food rosé. And quite mouth filling.
2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Dynamique 11€ A blend of 60 % Syrah with Carignan. Made in vat. Medium colour. Quite ripe nose, with some warm spicy fruit on the palate. Balanced with some ripe leathery notes. Warm and supple, with notes of the garrigues on the finish. A lovely glass of wine.
2007 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Généreux– 17€
A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan- about one third each, which spends 12 months in wood. Their first real vintage. I liked this less, the palate was quite solid and firm. I felt it was work in progress.
I much preferred 2007 Elégant, a pure Carignan It spent twelve months in oak, but from 2008, there was no more oak. Quite ripe and solid on the nose. A rounded palate; the oak was well integrated, with some ripe spicy fruit. Good body.
2009 Pain d’Oiseau Côtes Catalanes. Carignan blanc from vines that are between 60 and 120 years old. Élevage in vat. Quite rounded, ripe and textured. Almost nutty with ripe fruit. Very satisfying.
Again a new estate with considerable potential.
We began with a rosé, 2010 Libertine – 11€ - made from Carignan, from grapes that are pressed. Pale orange pink colour. Very ripe and vinous. Quite a heavy food rosé. And quite mouth filling.
2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Dynamique 11€ A blend of 60 % Syrah with Carignan. Made in vat. Medium colour. Quite ripe nose, with some warm spicy fruit on the palate. Balanced with some ripe leathery notes. Warm and supple, with notes of the garrigues on the finish. A lovely glass of wine.
2007 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Généreux– 17€
A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan- about one third each, which spends 12 months in wood. Their first real vintage. I liked this less, the palate was quite solid and firm. I felt it was work in progress.
I much preferred 2007 Elégant, a pure Carignan It spent twelve months in oak, but from 2008, there was no more oak. Quite ripe and solid on the nose. A rounded palate; the oak was well integrated, with some ripe spicy fruit. Good body.
2009 Pain d’Oiseau Côtes Catalanes. Carignan blanc from vines that are between 60 and 120 years old. Élevage in vat. Quite rounded, ripe and textured. Almost nutty with ripe fruit. Very satisfying.
Again a new estate with considerable potential.
DOMAINE DE SABBAT
A new estate in Roussillon, in the village of Latour de France. Sylvain Lejeune has bought nine hectares, and made his first wines in 2009. His vines are anything between 40 and 80 years old.
2010 Côtes du Roussillon – A blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Maccabeu, fermented in oak. The oak is still quite dominant on the nose, with a rounded oaky palate. A textured wine with lots of development potential and a long finish.
2010 Côtes du Roussillon Villages – 80% Carignan, with Syrah, and unusual for not having any Grenache. Spends four months in wood. Quite a firm peppery nose with some spicy fruit on the palate. Quite a firm oaky streak. The Syrah tempers the Carignan
2009 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Printemps 1900
A blend of 60% Syrah with 40% Syrah. Spends 12 months in tonneaux. Quite a solid rounded mouthful of wine. Youthful and ripe with good texture. Full-bodied. A long rich finish. A touch of alcohol on the finish. Redolent of the warm south.
2010 Rivesaltes Grenat – pure Grenache Noir. Quite a deep colour. Quite ripe and rounded. Quite intensely sweet, rich and ripe, balanced with a youthful tannic streak.
On first taste, lots of potential and worth a visit.
2010 Côtes du Roussillon – A blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Maccabeu, fermented in oak. The oak is still quite dominant on the nose, with a rounded oaky palate. A textured wine with lots of development potential and a long finish.
2010 Côtes du Roussillon Villages – 80% Carignan, with Syrah, and unusual for not having any Grenache. Spends four months in wood. Quite a firm peppery nose with some spicy fruit on the palate. Quite a firm oaky streak. The Syrah tempers the Carignan
2009 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Printemps 1900
A blend of 60% Syrah with 40% Syrah. Spends 12 months in tonneaux. Quite a solid rounded mouthful of wine. Youthful and ripe with good texture. Full-bodied. A long rich finish. A touch of alcohol on the finish. Redolent of the warm south.
2010 Rivesaltes Grenat – pure Grenache Noir. Quite a deep colour. Quite ripe and rounded. Quite intensely sweet, rich and ripe, balanced with a youthful tannic streak.
On first taste, lots of potential and worth a visit.
Monday, 30 January 2012
DOMAINE LA COUME DU ROY
A familiar name, as they were showing a couple of wines on the Maury walk last May. Agnès de Volantat –Bachelet explained that 75% of her vineyards are Grenache, with some Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre. And she also has some Muscat. And 2011 is the first vintage for Maury Sec, with about ten producers of a red table wine, and only red, to distinguish it from the surrounding Côtes du Roussillon Villages. Maury as Vin Doux can be white as well as red.
2007 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Désir, a blend of Grenache and Syrah. – a future Maury Sec
Good colour; solid rounded ripe fruit, a touch oak, nicely full-bodied.
2010 Maury Traditionnel, from Grenache
Some spicy red fruit. Quite ripe, rounded spice on the palate. Well integrated alcohol. The alcohol is added to the juice.
2009 Maury Vintage
Again pure Grenache. Very deep colour. Youthful spice, medium weight palate, riper, more tannic with more concentration. The difference between mutage on juice, as in the previous wine, and mutage on skins, as for this wine, with three weeks skin contact with the alcohol. Lovely youthful spice.
Maury Blanc, again from Grenache, Blanc and Gris. Quite ripe and rounded, with juicy ripe fruit on the palate, with good acidity, some alcohol and a raisiny finish. 13.00€
1925 Maury Blanc, or rather tawny brown in colour. It was bottled in 2001, a foudre made by Agnès’ great grandfather, and a piece of history. Lovely ripe rich fruit, long lingering rich palate with a long elegant finish. Absolutely delicious. Elegantly dry, rich and nutty. Only 3000 bottles made – 350€
2010 Muscat de Rivesaltes, a blend of both Muscat à petits grains and Muscat d’Alexandrie. – Half and half. Fresh, ripe and grapey with a bitter Muscat finish. Classic.
2007 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Désir, a blend of Grenache and Syrah. – a future Maury Sec
Good colour; solid rounded ripe fruit, a touch oak, nicely full-bodied.
2010 Maury Traditionnel, from Grenache
Some spicy red fruit. Quite ripe, rounded spice on the palate. Well integrated alcohol. The alcohol is added to the juice.
2009 Maury Vintage
Again pure Grenache. Very deep colour. Youthful spice, medium weight palate, riper, more tannic with more concentration. The difference between mutage on juice, as in the previous wine, and mutage on skins, as for this wine, with three weeks skin contact with the alcohol. Lovely youthful spice.
Maury Blanc, again from Grenache, Blanc and Gris. Quite ripe and rounded, with juicy ripe fruit on the palate, with good acidity, some alcohol and a raisiny finish. 13.00€
1925 Maury Blanc, or rather tawny brown in colour. It was bottled in 2001, a foudre made by Agnès’ great grandfather, and a piece of history. Lovely ripe rich fruit, long lingering rich palate with a long elegant finish. Absolutely delicious. Elegantly dry, rich and nutty. Only 3000 bottles made – 350€
2010 Muscat de Rivesaltes, a blend of both Muscat à petits grains and Muscat d’Alexandrie. – Half and half. Fresh, ripe and grapey with a bitter Muscat finish. Classic.
Friday, 27 January 2012
SALON DES VIGNERONS INDEPENDENTS IN LONDON - Domaine du Grand Chemin
I didn’t get to the Salon des Vignerons Independents in Paris this winter, for various reasons, but instead made up for that omission at a mini-salon at Lords last week. There was a good handful of growers from Languedoc-Roussillon, some new to me and some familiar. So my next few posts will focus on what I discovered at Lords.
First off was a new name – Domaine du Grand Chemin, with Emmanuel Floutier, at Savinargues in the Gard, not too far from Anduze and Alès. Most of the wines they were showing were IGP Pays d’Oc, but they also come within the Pays des Cevennes and Duché d’Uzès. Emmanuel’s first bottling was the 2003 vintage, but his father started bottling back in 1984. Altogether they have 60 hectares of vines and produce an eclectic range. Here are some of the highlights, or indeed just of few of the wines they make, as the number of wines was limited to six for each exhibitor – nowhere near enough, even with a couple more hidden under the table. I ended up tasting more of their wines that I anticipated which must be a good thing.
2011 Sauvignon – 4.50€
Quite a firm pithy nose. Crisp palate, with good acidity and a rounded finish.
2011 Viognier
A hint peachy on both nose and palate. No great depth but fresh with light varietal character.
2011 Chardonnay
Lightly buttery on the nose. Light fruit on the palate and nicely balanced.
2011 Rosé Gris – a blend of Cinsaut and Grenache. – 4.60€
This wine accounts for 40% of their production, and pretty good it was too. A light, pretty colour. A delicate nose, but on the palate quite ripe and vinous, with a rounded delicate fruity finish. A food rosé.
2010 Pinot Noir
They are in one of the cooler parts of the Languedoc, where Pinot Noir fares better. It was quite a simple wine, but none the worse for that. A delicate nose, with a hint of raspberry, and on the palate quite dry, with a hint of liquorice and a fresh finish. Easy simple drinking.
2010 Merlot
Quite ripe and rounded, with a tannic streak.
2009 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Quite rich, rounded cassis on the nose. Quite dry fruit on the palate, with good varietal character.
And then came a couple of blends:
2009 Cuvée JMF – after Emmanuel’s father Jean-Marc. -9.00€ A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Pinot Noir, blended together after six months of élevage, partly in old French oak and partly in vat. The nose was quite firm and oaky, with some perfumed fruit on the palate, some spicy oak and a fresh finish. I am not sure about blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir – I think they might argue a bit in the glass, but from memory it was the first time that I had tasted such a blend.
2010 Clos Rogé, a blend of 40% each of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 20% Petit Verdot which worked better. It was also more expensive at 14.50€ and included a higher percentage (80%) of oak ageing, in 400 litre tonneaux.. Quite firm and structured on the nose; quite powerful palate, with an elegant finish. Some good ageing potential.
www.domainedugrandchemin.com
First off was a new name – Domaine du Grand Chemin, with Emmanuel Floutier, at Savinargues in the Gard, not too far from Anduze and Alès. Most of the wines they were showing were IGP Pays d’Oc, but they also come within the Pays des Cevennes and Duché d’Uzès. Emmanuel’s first bottling was the 2003 vintage, but his father started bottling back in 1984. Altogether they have 60 hectares of vines and produce an eclectic range. Here are some of the highlights, or indeed just of few of the wines they make, as the number of wines was limited to six for each exhibitor – nowhere near enough, even with a couple more hidden under the table. I ended up tasting more of their wines that I anticipated which must be a good thing.
2011 Sauvignon – 4.50€
Quite a firm pithy nose. Crisp palate, with good acidity and a rounded finish.
2011 Viognier
A hint peachy on both nose and palate. No great depth but fresh with light varietal character.
2011 Chardonnay
Lightly buttery on the nose. Light fruit on the palate and nicely balanced.
2011 Rosé Gris – a blend of Cinsaut and Grenache. – 4.60€
This wine accounts for 40% of their production, and pretty good it was too. A light, pretty colour. A delicate nose, but on the palate quite ripe and vinous, with a rounded delicate fruity finish. A food rosé.
2010 Pinot Noir
They are in one of the cooler parts of the Languedoc, where Pinot Noir fares better. It was quite a simple wine, but none the worse for that. A delicate nose, with a hint of raspberry, and on the palate quite dry, with a hint of liquorice and a fresh finish. Easy simple drinking.
2010 Merlot
Quite ripe and rounded, with a tannic streak.
2009 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Quite rich, rounded cassis on the nose. Quite dry fruit on the palate, with good varietal character.
And then came a couple of blends:
2009 Cuvée JMF – after Emmanuel’s father Jean-Marc. -9.00€ A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Pinot Noir, blended together after six months of élevage, partly in old French oak and partly in vat. The nose was quite firm and oaky, with some perfumed fruit on the palate, some spicy oak and a fresh finish. I am not sure about blending Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir – I think they might argue a bit in the glass, but from memory it was the first time that I had tasted such a blend.
2010 Clos Rogé, a blend of 40% each of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, with 20% Petit Verdot which worked better. It was also more expensive at 14.50€ and included a higher percentage (80%) of oak ageing, in 400 litre tonneaux.. Quite firm and structured on the nose; quite powerful palate, with an elegant finish. Some good ageing potential.
www.domainedugrandchemin.com
Sunday, 22 January 2012
THIS AND THAT AT LIBERTY WINES
Liberty Wines celebrated their 15th anniversary this week with a mega tasting at the Oval Cricket ground. In my mind, they are known above all for what was a ground-breaking range of Italian, and especially Tuscan wine, when they first started up, but these days their list covers the world and includes some stars from the Languedoc, namely:
2011 Château la Tour de Bérard, Costières de Nîmes blanc
This is the sister property of the better known Château Mourgues de Grès. A blend of 40% Grenache Blanc with 30% each of Roussanne and Vermentino. Still very young with some pithy fruit with hints of white blossom and some good acidity. Nicely understated and plenty of potential for further development.
2010 Château la Tour de Bérard, Costières de Nîmes rouge
A blend of Syrah and Grenache, with some Mourvèdre and Carignan. Quite a deep colour. Very perfumed sunny fruit. Rounded ripe and spicy, with supple tannins. Lovely easy drinking.
2011 Domaine la Croix Gratiot, Picpoul de Pinet.
Quite a fresh stony nose, but more rounded and perfumed on the palate. Not the saline minerality that I expect for Picpoul or whether that will develop with a bit more bottle age. A slightly sweet finish.
There was also a 2011 Roussanne, IGP Pays d’Oc
Quit rounded, with white flowers and some perfume and a dry finish. Very pleasant easy drinking.
There were a couple of wines from Mas la Chevalière, the Domaine Laroche property outside Beziers. 2010 Chardonnay was a tank sample and was quite fresh without much real character. Nor was the 2010 Viognier particularly expressive. More satisfying was 2008 Vignoble Peyral, a blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Viognier, grown in vineyards at 200 metres. Quite solid, rounded and nutty, with a peachy hint from the Viognier.
Emmanuel Cazes, from Domaine Cazes in Rivesaltes, was at the tasting with a couple of wines:
2011 Le Canon du Maréchal Blanc, a blend of Muscat with 20% Viognier. Lovely grapey varietal character. Very Muscat, but with the potential bitterness of the Muscat on the finish softened by the peachiness of the Viognier. Easy drinking for an apéro.
2010 Marie Gabrielle, Côtes du Roussillon
60% Syrah, with 40% Grenache. Quite rounded and ripe, with a leathery tannic note. Ripe and spicy with a firm finish. Youthful, characterful and satisfying.
2009 Château Saint Roch, Chimères, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Quite firm with some leathery fruit and some oak on the palate, which slightly overwhelms the fruit. I preferred the Cazes wine.
However, the real surprise of the tasting was the very first wine I have ever tasted from Armenia. Estate name Zorah, made by Zorik Gharibian with the help of Italian oenologist Alberto Antonini. The grape is an indigenous variety, Areni. No, I had never heard of it either. It is ungrafted – there is no phylloxera in the southern part of Armenia. The wine fermented in stainless steel and then undergoes a malo-lactic fermentation, partly in amphora – the mention karasi on the label indicates this – and also in French and Armenian oak. Armenian oak is apparently denser than French oak. And how did it taste? I had no idea what to expect. Elegance was the dominant characteristic; medium colour; quite a firm nose. Cherry fruit – not so dissimilar to Sangiovese, with a streak of tannin and freshness on the finish. A really lovely surprise.
The other extreme at the tasting were wines from England – a couple of sparkling wines from new producers Coates & Seely a blanc de blancs from Chardonnay and a rosé, with some ripe fruit. And then I spotted two wines from Stopham in West Sussex. This is a village that I associate with brass-rubbing in the church more years ago than I care to remember. Simon Woodhead was showing a Pinot Blanc and a Pinot Gris – I had no idea that these were planted anywhere near the South Downs. The 2010 Pinot Blanc was light and delicate with some fresh fruit, and while the 2010 Pinot Gris had a touch of residual sugar to round it out a bit, balanced with some spice and good acidity.
And to complete the unexpected flavours of the day, friends came to dinner bearing a bottle that their son-in-law had procured in the duty free shop at Adis Abeba airport – yes, it was an Ethiopian wine. A dry white wine, labelled Awash Cristal, from a possible appropriately named producer, Awash Wineries. The back label gave no clues about grape varieties, simply saying that it is ‘made from early grapes and produced with particular methods’. It would be kind to say that it was short on flavour – but it got full marks for originality of provenance.
2011 Château la Tour de Bérard, Costières de Nîmes blanc
This is the sister property of the better known Château Mourgues de Grès. A blend of 40% Grenache Blanc with 30% each of Roussanne and Vermentino. Still very young with some pithy fruit with hints of white blossom and some good acidity. Nicely understated and plenty of potential for further development.
2010 Château la Tour de Bérard, Costières de Nîmes rouge
A blend of Syrah and Grenache, with some Mourvèdre and Carignan. Quite a deep colour. Very perfumed sunny fruit. Rounded ripe and spicy, with supple tannins. Lovely easy drinking.
2011 Domaine la Croix Gratiot, Picpoul de Pinet.
Quite a fresh stony nose, but more rounded and perfumed on the palate. Not the saline minerality that I expect for Picpoul or whether that will develop with a bit more bottle age. A slightly sweet finish.
There was also a 2011 Roussanne, IGP Pays d’Oc
Quit rounded, with white flowers and some perfume and a dry finish. Very pleasant easy drinking.
There were a couple of wines from Mas la Chevalière, the Domaine Laroche property outside Beziers. 2010 Chardonnay was a tank sample and was quite fresh without much real character. Nor was the 2010 Viognier particularly expressive. More satisfying was 2008 Vignoble Peyral, a blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Viognier, grown in vineyards at 200 metres. Quite solid, rounded and nutty, with a peachy hint from the Viognier.
Emmanuel Cazes, from Domaine Cazes in Rivesaltes, was at the tasting with a couple of wines:
2011 Le Canon du Maréchal Blanc, a blend of Muscat with 20% Viognier. Lovely grapey varietal character. Very Muscat, but with the potential bitterness of the Muscat on the finish softened by the peachiness of the Viognier. Easy drinking for an apéro.
2010 Marie Gabrielle, Côtes du Roussillon
60% Syrah, with 40% Grenache. Quite rounded and ripe, with a leathery tannic note. Ripe and spicy with a firm finish. Youthful, characterful and satisfying.
2009 Château Saint Roch, Chimères, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Quite firm with some leathery fruit and some oak on the palate, which slightly overwhelms the fruit. I preferred the Cazes wine.
However, the real surprise of the tasting was the very first wine I have ever tasted from Armenia. Estate name Zorah, made by Zorik Gharibian with the help of Italian oenologist Alberto Antonini. The grape is an indigenous variety, Areni. No, I had never heard of it either. It is ungrafted – there is no phylloxera in the southern part of Armenia. The wine fermented in stainless steel and then undergoes a malo-lactic fermentation, partly in amphora – the mention karasi on the label indicates this – and also in French and Armenian oak. Armenian oak is apparently denser than French oak. And how did it taste? I had no idea what to expect. Elegance was the dominant characteristic; medium colour; quite a firm nose. Cherry fruit – not so dissimilar to Sangiovese, with a streak of tannin and freshness on the finish. A really lovely surprise.
The other extreme at the tasting were wines from England – a couple of sparkling wines from new producers Coates & Seely a blanc de blancs from Chardonnay and a rosé, with some ripe fruit. And then I spotted two wines from Stopham in West Sussex. This is a village that I associate with brass-rubbing in the church more years ago than I care to remember. Simon Woodhead was showing a Pinot Blanc and a Pinot Gris – I had no idea that these were planted anywhere near the South Downs. The 2010 Pinot Blanc was light and delicate with some fresh fruit, and while the 2010 Pinot Gris had a touch of residual sugar to round it out a bit, balanced with some spice and good acidity.
And to complete the unexpected flavours of the day, friends came to dinner bearing a bottle that their son-in-law had procured in the duty free shop at Adis Abeba airport – yes, it was an Ethiopian wine. A dry white wine, labelled Awash Cristal, from a possible appropriately named producer, Awash Wineries. The back label gave no clues about grape varieties, simply saying that it is ‘made from early grapes and produced with particular methods’. It would be kind to say that it was short on flavour – but it got full marks for originality of provenance.
Thursday, 12 January 2012
TEN DAYS IN THE LANGUEDOC
Ten days in the Languedoc, and not one cellar visit ....... but some highlights around a table. Vigneron friends came to dinner, but mainly English with a thirst for New Zealand. And French friends were introduced to the delights of English bubbles. Ridgeview’s Grosvenor came up trumps.
Dinner with my tasting buddy Lits, who produced both red and white from Finca Narraza in St. Paul de Fenouillet - new name for me, and definitely worth exploring further.
The 2006 white is a blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeo, Camps del Roi, Côtes Catalanes. A light amber colour, with a rich nutty nose and palate. Initially it might seem oxidised, but it is most definitely not. A wine with great depth, character, richness and length. Very good acidity.
The red was also from the 2006 vintage, les Cigales, Côtes du Roussillon Villages a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Deep young colour. Quite rich and intense on the nose, with ripe fruit on the palate. Quite tannic with a mineral streak. Again very intriguing with length and depth.
Friends from the village came to dinner and Françoise Ollier’s 2010 les Collines slipped own a treat – sunshine in a glass; with ripe spicy fruit. And Lizzie came bearing a bottle of 2004 No 7 from Domaine la Croix Belle. I admit to my shame that I omitted to write a tasting note sat the time, but from memory, it was drinking beautifully; any oak had long since integrated leaving a wonderful complete, harmonious glass of wine.
And the next evening a friend generously opened bottles of 2007 Mas de Daumas Gassac. It was sound, with firm tannins and firm fruit, but it simply did not sing, and I did not feel that it was going anywhere either. A bottle of the 2000 vintage drunk in London last autumn was so much better.
Dinner with Anne and Christian at Domaine de Monplézy, with fellow guests Deborah and Peter from Mas Gabriel, confirmed just how much I enjoy the wines from both estates – see earlier postings. And Christian is a dab hand with barbecued gigot d’agneau.
And before we rushed to the airport we checked out the new restaurant in our village, Le Petit Péché. It has to be said that the wine list needs a bit of work, but it did produce a cheerful 2010 Muscat Sec, Côtes de Thongue from Domaine Bonian. Light colour; ripe, grapey, pithy Muscat fruit, and fresh varietal character on the palate, with a sweet touch of grapy fruit and a slightly bitter Muscat finish. Very Muscat.
And the red wine was 2010 l’Ambrin Vin de la Grange, Languedoc, a blend of Syrah and Grenache – see my earlier posting about Eric Morot’s wines. This was quite solid on the nose, with rustic peppery black fruit on the palate. And went deliciously with a confit de canard.
And now I am off to taste some 2010 Chablis for a complete change of flavours.
Dinner with my tasting buddy Lits, who produced both red and white from Finca Narraza in St. Paul de Fenouillet - new name for me, and definitely worth exploring further.
The 2006 white is a blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeo, Camps del Roi, Côtes Catalanes. A light amber colour, with a rich nutty nose and palate. Initially it might seem oxidised, but it is most definitely not. A wine with great depth, character, richness and length. Very good acidity.
The red was also from the 2006 vintage, les Cigales, Côtes du Roussillon Villages a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Deep young colour. Quite rich and intense on the nose, with ripe fruit on the palate. Quite tannic with a mineral streak. Again very intriguing with length and depth.
Friends from the village came to dinner and Françoise Ollier’s 2010 les Collines slipped own a treat – sunshine in a glass; with ripe spicy fruit. And Lizzie came bearing a bottle of 2004 No 7 from Domaine la Croix Belle. I admit to my shame that I omitted to write a tasting note sat the time, but from memory, it was drinking beautifully; any oak had long since integrated leaving a wonderful complete, harmonious glass of wine.
And the next evening a friend generously opened bottles of 2007 Mas de Daumas Gassac. It was sound, with firm tannins and firm fruit, but it simply did not sing, and I did not feel that it was going anywhere either. A bottle of the 2000 vintage drunk in London last autumn was so much better.
Dinner with Anne and Christian at Domaine de Monplézy, with fellow guests Deborah and Peter from Mas Gabriel, confirmed just how much I enjoy the wines from both estates – see earlier postings. And Christian is a dab hand with barbecued gigot d’agneau.
And before we rushed to the airport we checked out the new restaurant in our village, Le Petit Péché. It has to be said that the wine list needs a bit of work, but it did produce a cheerful 2010 Muscat Sec, Côtes de Thongue from Domaine Bonian. Light colour; ripe, grapey, pithy Muscat fruit, and fresh varietal character on the palate, with a sweet touch of grapy fruit and a slightly bitter Muscat finish. Very Muscat.
And the red wine was 2010 l’Ambrin Vin de la Grange, Languedoc, a blend of Syrah and Grenache – see my earlier posting about Eric Morot’s wines. This was quite solid on the nose, with rustic peppery black fruit on the palate. And went deliciously with a confit de canard.
And now I am off to taste some 2010 Chablis for a complete change of flavours.
Saturday, 31 December 2011
BACK IN THE LANGUEDOC
The first evening in our Languedoc home for three months and friends coming to dinner – so a good opportunity to open a bottle or two.
First was Villa Dondona’s 2010 Esperel,Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc, a blend of Vermentino and Grenache Blanc with a touch of Marsanne and Roussanne. Light colour, with some herbal notes on the nose. Some white blossom and a herbal note on the palate, balanced with refreshing acidity. Nicely understated. It made a good apéro. I first tried this in the spring when it won a trophy in the Vallée de l’Hérault competition and it was gratifying to find it just as good nine months on.
Next came 2009 Les Clauzes de Jo from Domaine des Belles Pierres. Damien Coste is a particularly talented white winemaker. And this was delicious, with a light colour and a slightly honeyed note on the nose. There was more honey on the palate, with a ripe flavour and a satisfying mouth feel, balanced with good acidity and a rounded finish. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier.
And then we compared a pair of Carignan. First was 2009 Vieux Carignan, Cuvée Paul from Mas d’Amile in Montpeyroux, so an IGP Mont Baudile. Medium young colour. Some berry fruit on the nose, and even more on the palate with a streak of tannin. An elegant edge of rusticity. Nicely balanced fruit and tannins. Still quite youthful but drinking well now.
2004 Carignan from Jean-Louis Denois in Limoux, so a more mature wine from cooler vineyards. Medium colour. Quite a dry leathery quality on the nose, and also on the palate, with some dry fruit. A certain sturdy quality; a more masculine wine than Mas d’Amile. Quite rustic with dry warmth and very satisfying.
So two shining examples of the dramatic improvement in white wine making in the Languedoc, and two lovely examples of a once despised grape variety.
And for a quiet ‘this is not a New Year’s Eve dinner’, I am contemplating a bottle of Crémant de Limoux Rosé from Domaine Rives Blanques, and a bottle of Domaine de Clovallon’s best Pinot Noir, 2006 les Pomarèdes to accompany a guinea fowl.
Bonne Année to all lovers of Languedoc wines!
First was Villa Dondona’s 2010 Esperel,Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc, a blend of Vermentino and Grenache Blanc with a touch of Marsanne and Roussanne. Light colour, with some herbal notes on the nose. Some white blossom and a herbal note on the palate, balanced with refreshing acidity. Nicely understated. It made a good apéro. I first tried this in the spring when it won a trophy in the Vallée de l’Hérault competition and it was gratifying to find it just as good nine months on.
Next came 2009 Les Clauzes de Jo from Domaine des Belles Pierres. Damien Coste is a particularly talented white winemaker. And this was delicious, with a light colour and a slightly honeyed note on the nose. There was more honey on the palate, with a ripe flavour and a satisfying mouth feel, balanced with good acidity and a rounded finish. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier.
And then we compared a pair of Carignan. First was 2009 Vieux Carignan, Cuvée Paul from Mas d’Amile in Montpeyroux, so an IGP Mont Baudile. Medium young colour. Some berry fruit on the nose, and even more on the palate with a streak of tannin. An elegant edge of rusticity. Nicely balanced fruit and tannins. Still quite youthful but drinking well now.
2004 Carignan from Jean-Louis Denois in Limoux, so a more mature wine from cooler vineyards. Medium colour. Quite a dry leathery quality on the nose, and also on the palate, with some dry fruit. A certain sturdy quality; a more masculine wine than Mas d’Amile. Quite rustic with dry warmth and very satisfying.
So two shining examples of the dramatic improvement in white wine making in the Languedoc, and two lovely examples of a once despised grape variety.
And for a quiet ‘this is not a New Year’s Eve dinner’, I am contemplating a bottle of Crémant de Limoux Rosé from Domaine Rives Blanques, and a bottle of Domaine de Clovallon’s best Pinot Noir, 2006 les Pomarèdes to accompany a guinea fowl.
Bonne Année to all lovers of Languedoc wines!
Wednesday, 21 December 2011
MAS GABRIEL at the Solicitors' Wine Society
Christmas deadlines seem to have taken over and I’ve neglected my blog for the last week or three - apologies – I’m not sure where the days have gone, which is a pretty feeble excuse. But with the grey dank weather in London this morning, my thoughts turned to Languedoc sunshine. Earlier in the month I was invited by the Solicitors’ Wine Society to help with a tasting of the wines from Mas Gabriel. Those of you who read my blog with any regularity will know that Mas Gabriel is one of my favourite local estates and this tasting provided a great overview of their wines since their very first vintage in 2006. Deborah Core was a solicitor in a former life, so it was only fitting that she should present her wines to the solicitors.
The prices given below are those of specialist Languedoc importer Terroirs du Languedoc
www.terroirlanguedoc.co.uk
2010 Les Fleurs Sauvages Rosé - IGP Hérault - £11.50
A blend of Carignan and Cinsaut with 10% Grenache, made from pressed grapes. Light colour. Quite a rounded nose with a hint of strawberry and raspberry fruit. Quite a firm palate, with a streak of tannin and acidity, and balanced with a nicely vinous ripe finish. What I would call a food rosé – bring on the salade niçoise.
2010 Clos des Papillons Blanc IGP Hérault - £14.95
A great example of the revival of a lost white variety, Carignan Blanc. A little colour. Quite a perfumed herbal nose, with some intriguing fruit, length and depth on the palate. Lots of nuances. And there is a reason why Carignan Blanc performs so well in the Midi – its high level of acidity, so that it retains its freshness and does not develop the flabbiness of some northern varieties in the south.
Next came a mini vertical of Les Trois Terrasses, IGP Hérault – their pure Carignan
2010 – A vat sample. Very deep young colour. Firm mineral nose and quite closed. And on the palate, ripe black berry fruit; ripe and rounded with the rustic streak of Carignan. The blend includes one third of carbonic maceration, which softens the sometimes harsh tannins of Carignan. Peter and Deborah like to try something new each vintage.
2009 - £11.95
Deep young colour; firm and youthful on the nose. Quite a ripe dense palate, with more tannins than in the 2010. That may be a reflection of the vintage conditions, and also the vinification, as there is no maceration carbonic in this wine.
2008
Good young colour. Quite a closed nose. The wine is beginning to develop, some cedary hints, with some berry fruit. Nicely balanced, with an attractive rustic, tannic streak. Really quite elegant, especially for a Carignan. Fermented in a concrete tank, so not a hint of oak anywhere.
2006 Mas Gabriel, Coteaux du Languedoc
A blend of 63% Carignan, 28% Syrah and 9% Grenache. Their very first wine. Quite a deep colour; some oak on the nose. The palate is quite firm and tannic, dense and solid, and quite extracted, with what I call furry tannins. For a first vinification from vineyards that they did not know, it is pretty good, but it also shows how much Peter and Deborah’s winemaking has improved in subsequent vintages, as they got to know their vineyards and with more experience of the conditions of the Midi.
2008 Clos des Lièvres, Pézenas - £12.50
60% Syrah with 20% each of Grenache and Carignan. Deep colour. Quite a closed firm nose. Good fruit. Quite dense and rounded on the palate with a firm ripe streak of tannin. Youthful. Needs time to develop.
Clos des Lièvres 2009, Pézenas
A traditional fermentation. The same blend as the 2008. In 2010 the blend is Syrah with Grenache and no Carignan, which went into Les Trois Terrasses Good colour. A more elegant nose, with some berry fruit. Quite rounded and brambly, quite rich with a tannic streak. In fact, absolutely delicious and a great finale to the tasting.
The prices given below are those of specialist Languedoc importer Terroirs du Languedoc
www.terroirlanguedoc.co.uk
2010 Les Fleurs Sauvages Rosé - IGP Hérault - £11.50
A blend of Carignan and Cinsaut with 10% Grenache, made from pressed grapes. Light colour. Quite a rounded nose with a hint of strawberry and raspberry fruit. Quite a firm palate, with a streak of tannin and acidity, and balanced with a nicely vinous ripe finish. What I would call a food rosé – bring on the salade niçoise.
2010 Clos des Papillons Blanc IGP Hérault - £14.95
A great example of the revival of a lost white variety, Carignan Blanc. A little colour. Quite a perfumed herbal nose, with some intriguing fruit, length and depth on the palate. Lots of nuances. And there is a reason why Carignan Blanc performs so well in the Midi – its high level of acidity, so that it retains its freshness and does not develop the flabbiness of some northern varieties in the south.
Next came a mini vertical of Les Trois Terrasses, IGP Hérault – their pure Carignan
2010 – A vat sample. Very deep young colour. Firm mineral nose and quite closed. And on the palate, ripe black berry fruit; ripe and rounded with the rustic streak of Carignan. The blend includes one third of carbonic maceration, which softens the sometimes harsh tannins of Carignan. Peter and Deborah like to try something new each vintage.
2009 - £11.95
Deep young colour; firm and youthful on the nose. Quite a ripe dense palate, with more tannins than in the 2010. That may be a reflection of the vintage conditions, and also the vinification, as there is no maceration carbonic in this wine.
2008
Good young colour. Quite a closed nose. The wine is beginning to develop, some cedary hints, with some berry fruit. Nicely balanced, with an attractive rustic, tannic streak. Really quite elegant, especially for a Carignan. Fermented in a concrete tank, so not a hint of oak anywhere.
2006 Mas Gabriel, Coteaux du Languedoc
A blend of 63% Carignan, 28% Syrah and 9% Grenache. Their very first wine. Quite a deep colour; some oak on the nose. The palate is quite firm and tannic, dense and solid, and quite extracted, with what I call furry tannins. For a first vinification from vineyards that they did not know, it is pretty good, but it also shows how much Peter and Deborah’s winemaking has improved in subsequent vintages, as they got to know their vineyards and with more experience of the conditions of the Midi.
2008 Clos des Lièvres, Pézenas - £12.50
60% Syrah with 20% each of Grenache and Carignan. Deep colour. Quite a closed firm nose. Good fruit. Quite dense and rounded on the palate with a firm ripe streak of tannin. Youthful. Needs time to develop.
Clos des Lièvres 2009, Pézenas
A traditional fermentation. The same blend as the 2008. In 2010 the blend is Syrah with Grenache and no Carignan, which went into Les Trois Terrasses Good colour. A more elegant nose, with some berry fruit. Quite rounded and brambly, quite rich with a tannic streak. In fact, absolutely delicious and a great finale to the tasting.
Thursday, 1 December 2011
ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINES FROM THE LANGUEDOC AND ROUSSILLON
The autumn organic tasting at the Maison du Languedoc in Cavendish Square seems to have become an annual event. This year there were 18 producers, some from last year; some newcomers; some old friends; some new discoveries. What follows are some of the highlights. Most people were looking for some UK distribution, so no retail prices were available.
BORIE LA VITARELLE
www.borielavitarele.fr
Jean-Francois Izarn is a short, stocky guy, and somehow his wines follow his physique. They are ripe and rounded, rich and characterful. The estate is in the tiny village of Causses et Veyran, which is part of the appellation of St. Chinian. Jean-Francois explained that he has three different terroirs.
2010 Les Terres Blanches, St. Chinian
45% each of Grenache and Syrah, with 10% Mourvèdre, grown on limestone.
Deep colour; lots of ripe fruit on both nose and palate, very gourmand, ripe with supple tannins. A glass of sunshine.
2010 les Schistes, St. Chinian
Mainly Syrah and Grenache with a little Carignan. Aged in old 600 litres barrels, so that the oak is well integrated on the palate, with a fresh nose and some supple peppery notes on both the nose and palate.
2009 Les Cres St. Chinian
70% Syrah with 30% Mourvèdre, aged in 600 litre barrels of three wines. Grown on galets, not dissimilar to those of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. A more substantial nose, with a ripe, rounded palate. This wine has charpente or shoulders, with body and weight and a hint of ripe cherries. It needs time.
2009 Midi Rouge, St. Chinian
60% Syrah, 45% Mourvèdre, 5% Grenache. This is a new cuvée made for the first time in 2008. The idea is to take the best of each terroir, depending on the year and blend them together. The wine is fermented in open top demi muids and spends 18 months in barrel. It is quite solid and dense on the nose, with a ripe intense tannic palate, with good fruit and an edge of oak. Youthful tannins and a lot of matière and weight. Needs time
2009 La Combe, Coteaux de Murviel
70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Syrah.
Quite ripe cassis – you immediately detect the presence of Cabernet Sauvignon after the flavours of the south. Quite a rounded palate, and not too tannic and quite full-bodied.
DOMAINE MARTINOLE
At Lézignan-Corbières
www.domaine-martinolle.com
2010 Corbières, based on Syrah.
Medium colour; quite spicy fruit on the nose. Medium weight, easy drinking with a touch of spice and supple tannins on the palate.
DOMAINE DELMAS
From the village of Antugnac in Limoux
www.blanquette-delmas-bio.com
NV Cuvée Tradition Blanquette de Limoux
A blend of Mauzac with 10% Chardonnay Their Blanquette spends 18 – 24 months on the lees, as opposed to the nine months dictated by the AC regulations.
Ripe creamy nose, with a ripe rounded palate, and a nice touch of creaminess on the finish.
2008 Crémant de Limoux, Cuvée Passion,
60% Chardonnay , with 10% Pinot Noir, 15% Chenin and 15% Mauzac. Again 18 – 24 months on lees, as opposed to 12 months in the AC regulations.
Quite rounded with a touch of maturity on the nose. Again a rounded palate, with some depth and a creamy finish.
2008 Crémant de Limoux, Cuvée des Sacres
The same blend as the previous wine, but a selection of the juice, in other words, the first juice out of the press, with 5% fermented in oak.
Generally riper, fuller, and more rounded on nose and palate. Good body with a fine harmonious balance.
Clair de Lune, Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale
The traditional style of sparkling Limoux, a pure Mauzac, and made by stopping the fermentation, and then allowing it to start again in the spring. In lateral drinking terms, this could a French Asti Spumante, as it is quite sweet with grapey fruit. Light nose. Rounded palate, ripe and honeyed, with an appley touch on the finish that is characteristic of Mauzac.
And they have a new wine in the pipe line – all fermented in oak, with no dosage and two years on the lees. Sounds very intriguing. I can’t wait to try it.
GRAND GUILHEM
www.grandguilhem.com
An estate that covers Fitou, Corbières as well as Rivesaltes.
The Fitou are all called Les 4 Nids - apparently it brings you good luck for the next harvest if you find a bird’s nest (nid) in your vines.
2007 Les 4 Nids, Fitou
47% Carignan, 37% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 2% Mourvèdre
Quite ripe and rounded, with good leathery fruit. In contrast, the 2008 vintage was more closed on the nose, with a warm leathery palate, and some firm tannin.
Rivesaltes Rancio
A blend of all three colours of Grenache. Lovely walnut fruit on the nose and palate. Beautiful balance with a certain bite on the finish. Just what it should be. Rivesaltes Rancio is one of the great drinks of the Midi, grossly underrated and overlooked, and usually quite delicious. .
DOMAINE JOREL
Manuel Jorel has just seven hectares at St Paul de Fenouillet in the Agly valley, close to Maury. I visited him a few years ago – I remember dramatically situated vineyards on one of those February days in the south that are too good to be true.
2007 Cuvée Un, IGP Pyrénées-Orientales
50 / 50 Grenache and Carignan Medium colour. Quite a firm cherry nose, with some liquorice and spice on the palate. Medium weight. Lovely spicy fruit.
And I liked the 2008 even more. The vines, sixty to eighty year old, are grown on granite and schist. The wine has more structure than the 2007, with some spicy brambly fruit and an edge of tannin. Deep colour.
2010 Pésquiès, IGP Pyrénées-Orientales
Pure Grenache grown on schist in Maury.
Quite a firm nose with ripe liqueur cherries on the palate. Ripe and rounded with a tannic edge
2009 Pétaillat IGP Pyrénées-Orientales
Old Grenache grown on limestone. With the ripe liqueur cherry fruit, that is typical of Grenache, but balanced with good acidity and tannin.
2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages
A blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. Part of the Syrah has been aged in old wood, for twelve months, after a four week maceration on the skins. Firmer more structured fruit on nose and palate. Quite dry leathery spice, with a peppery edge of Syrah. Quite ripe and full on the finish.
2008 Maury
A blend of Grenache and Carignan. Three years in barrel.
Young colour. The ripe rounded berry fruit of vintage Vin Doux. A streak of tannin. Well integrated alcohol. A youthful balance and fresh fruit.
DOMAINE MONPLEZY
See a previous posting about Anne’s s wines. But she did want me to taste the 2011 rosés, which were of course both vat samples
Plaisirs Rosé, a blend of Grenache, Cinsaut and Syrah.
Pale pink; fresh youthful fruit, a touch of raspberry and good acidity
2011 Plaisirs Interdits Rosé
From the same grape varieties, but with a deeper colour and a fuller riper palate.
HEGARTY CHAMANS
www.hegartychamans.com
A 15 hectare estate, bought ‘in a moment of madness’ by John Hegarty of advertising fame, with his wife Philippa. He is applying his broader vision to his wines, with some success. And he feels very strongly that he wants to put something back into the land, leaving it in a better condition than how they found it. I also liked his concept that wine needs to lose its mystery, but still maintain its magic. The wines are sold by Adnams in Southwold.
2008 No 2, Minervois
70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsaut 12 months in oak
Warm spicy nose with a touch of oak. Quite warm ripe and rich cherry fruit. Nice spice with a lift on the finish.
2008 Open Now, Minervois
50/50 Mourvèdre and Syrah- the latest addition to the range.
Advertising humour comes in to play here The cork sports the words ‘Well Done! congratulating you on the successful manipulation of the corkscrew. 20% of the Syrah is aged in wood, and the rest in tank. Some cherry spice on the nose with ripe fruit and a rounded, textured palate. An appealing entry level wine.
2008 les Chamans Blanc, Minervois
50/50 Roussanne / Marsanne fermented in oak and blended before élevage/ No fining or filtering.
Quite a rounded, textured palate. Well integrated oak with good depth of flavour and layers of nuances. Still quite young. Should develop more intriguing character, with some more bottle age.
2005 No 1 Minervois
60% Syrah and 40% Carignan, blended and aged for 16 months in barrel and then a further year in tank. Good young colour; quite firm leathery notes on both nose and palate. Good fruit. Quite sturdy with tannin and concentration. Dry peppery notes. The warm south with a sturdy edge on the finish.
CHEMINS DE BASSAC
www.cheminsdebassac.com
A 15 hectares estate in the Côtes de Thongue. Isabelle Ducellier was pouring her wines. I liked the white best 2010 Isa blanc, a blend of Roussanne and Viognier, with some rounded fruit and peachy hints, and a touch of honey. Medium weight.
DOMAINE VIRGILE JOLY
2010 le Joly Rouge
A blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Cinsaut
This was drinking deliciously on the day. Medium weight. Fresh ripe fruit on the nose, and lots of ripe cherries on the palate. Easy drinking, just as it is intended to be.
2009 Saturne blanc, Coteaux du Languedoc
Pure Grenache blanc.
Lovely leafy ripe fruit. Textured palate with layers of flavour. Nicely balanced. I prefer Saturne to the oakier Virgile Blanc.
DOMAINE DU TRAGINER
www.traginer.fr
A 7 hectare estate based in Banyuls.
2007 Cuvée Vieille Foudre, Collioure
25% each Grenache, Carignan Mourvèdre and Syrah, with some old vines and ageing in barrel.
Medium colour. Quite a light nose, with leathery notes. Quite a rounded ripe palate, with some weight and ripe leathery fruit. Quite powerfully elegant with a fresh finish.
2005 Cuvée d’Octobre, Collioure
Same percentages of the same four grape varieties as the previous wine, but a later harvest and 14 months in barrel.
Medium colour. Some leathery spice, and more leather, spice and oak on the palate. Medium weight.
2001 Ey Single Vineyard Banyuls
Grenache Noir. Quite a tawny colour. Some rounded nutty fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced and very satisfying.
DOMAINE SINGLA
www.domainesingla.com
A large, 54 hectare property, with vineyards near Vingrau, making a range of different Côtes du Roussillon, with different blends and ageing.
2007 La Pinède, Côtes du Roussillon
A blend of 70% Syrah, 20% Grenache Noir and 10% Carignan, aged in barrel
Quite deep colour. Rounded oaky leathery nose and palate.
2009 La Crinyane, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Crinyane apparently means Carignan in Catalan, and that is the main grape variety, if not the only grape variety in the wine, though of course in theory Côtes du Roussillon Villages should be a blend of grape varieties. 13 months ageing in wood.
Quite a solid dense nose; solid rounded oaky palate, with ripe fruit, and a touch of alcohol on the finish.
2007 Arrels, Côtes du Roussillon Villages.
Predominantly Grenache Noir with a serious ex cellar price A selection of their four best barrels of Grenache Noir, so very limited quantity.
Quite a deep colour. Solid, dense and spicy oak on the nose, and on the palate intense fruit and oak. How will it age? Last week it packed a punch of flavour, but at the moment lacks subtlety for really enjoyable drinking.
BORIE LA VITARELLE
www.borielavitarele.fr
Jean-Francois Izarn is a short, stocky guy, and somehow his wines follow his physique. They are ripe and rounded, rich and characterful. The estate is in the tiny village of Causses et Veyran, which is part of the appellation of St. Chinian. Jean-Francois explained that he has three different terroirs.
2010 Les Terres Blanches, St. Chinian
45% each of Grenache and Syrah, with 10% Mourvèdre, grown on limestone.
Deep colour; lots of ripe fruit on both nose and palate, very gourmand, ripe with supple tannins. A glass of sunshine.
2010 les Schistes, St. Chinian
Mainly Syrah and Grenache with a little Carignan. Aged in old 600 litres barrels, so that the oak is well integrated on the palate, with a fresh nose and some supple peppery notes on both the nose and palate.
2009 Les Cres St. Chinian
70% Syrah with 30% Mourvèdre, aged in 600 litre barrels of three wines. Grown on galets, not dissimilar to those of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. A more substantial nose, with a ripe, rounded palate. This wine has charpente or shoulders, with body and weight and a hint of ripe cherries. It needs time.
2009 Midi Rouge, St. Chinian
60% Syrah, 45% Mourvèdre, 5% Grenache. This is a new cuvée made for the first time in 2008. The idea is to take the best of each terroir, depending on the year and blend them together. The wine is fermented in open top demi muids and spends 18 months in barrel. It is quite solid and dense on the nose, with a ripe intense tannic palate, with good fruit and an edge of oak. Youthful tannins and a lot of matière and weight. Needs time
2009 La Combe, Coteaux de Murviel
70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Syrah.
Quite ripe cassis – you immediately detect the presence of Cabernet Sauvignon after the flavours of the south. Quite a rounded palate, and not too tannic and quite full-bodied.
DOMAINE MARTINOLE
At Lézignan-Corbières
www.domaine-martinolle.com
2010 Corbières, based on Syrah.
Medium colour; quite spicy fruit on the nose. Medium weight, easy drinking with a touch of spice and supple tannins on the palate.
DOMAINE DELMAS
From the village of Antugnac in Limoux
www.blanquette-delmas-bio.com
NV Cuvée Tradition Blanquette de Limoux
A blend of Mauzac with 10% Chardonnay Their Blanquette spends 18 – 24 months on the lees, as opposed to the nine months dictated by the AC regulations.
Ripe creamy nose, with a ripe rounded palate, and a nice touch of creaminess on the finish.
2008 Crémant de Limoux, Cuvée Passion,
60% Chardonnay , with 10% Pinot Noir, 15% Chenin and 15% Mauzac. Again 18 – 24 months on lees, as opposed to 12 months in the AC regulations.
Quite rounded with a touch of maturity on the nose. Again a rounded palate, with some depth and a creamy finish.
2008 Crémant de Limoux, Cuvée des Sacres
The same blend as the previous wine, but a selection of the juice, in other words, the first juice out of the press, with 5% fermented in oak.
Generally riper, fuller, and more rounded on nose and palate. Good body with a fine harmonious balance.
Clair de Lune, Blanquette Méthode Ancestrale
The traditional style of sparkling Limoux, a pure Mauzac, and made by stopping the fermentation, and then allowing it to start again in the spring. In lateral drinking terms, this could a French Asti Spumante, as it is quite sweet with grapey fruit. Light nose. Rounded palate, ripe and honeyed, with an appley touch on the finish that is characteristic of Mauzac.
And they have a new wine in the pipe line – all fermented in oak, with no dosage and two years on the lees. Sounds very intriguing. I can’t wait to try it.
GRAND GUILHEM
www.grandguilhem.com
An estate that covers Fitou, Corbières as well as Rivesaltes.
The Fitou are all called Les 4 Nids - apparently it brings you good luck for the next harvest if you find a bird’s nest (nid) in your vines.
2007 Les 4 Nids, Fitou
47% Carignan, 37% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 2% Mourvèdre
Quite ripe and rounded, with good leathery fruit. In contrast, the 2008 vintage was more closed on the nose, with a warm leathery palate, and some firm tannin.
Rivesaltes Rancio
A blend of all three colours of Grenache. Lovely walnut fruit on the nose and palate. Beautiful balance with a certain bite on the finish. Just what it should be. Rivesaltes Rancio is one of the great drinks of the Midi, grossly underrated and overlooked, and usually quite delicious. .
DOMAINE JOREL
Manuel Jorel has just seven hectares at St Paul de Fenouillet in the Agly valley, close to Maury. I visited him a few years ago – I remember dramatically situated vineyards on one of those February days in the south that are too good to be true.
2007 Cuvée Un, IGP Pyrénées-Orientales
50 / 50 Grenache and Carignan Medium colour. Quite a firm cherry nose, with some liquorice and spice on the palate. Medium weight. Lovely spicy fruit.
And I liked the 2008 even more. The vines, sixty to eighty year old, are grown on granite and schist. The wine has more structure than the 2007, with some spicy brambly fruit and an edge of tannin. Deep colour.
2010 Pésquiès, IGP Pyrénées-Orientales
Pure Grenache grown on schist in Maury.
Quite a firm nose with ripe liqueur cherries on the palate. Ripe and rounded with a tannic edge
2009 Pétaillat IGP Pyrénées-Orientales
Old Grenache grown on limestone. With the ripe liqueur cherry fruit, that is typical of Grenache, but balanced with good acidity and tannin.
2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages
A blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. Part of the Syrah has been aged in old wood, for twelve months, after a four week maceration on the skins. Firmer more structured fruit on nose and palate. Quite dry leathery spice, with a peppery edge of Syrah. Quite ripe and full on the finish.
2008 Maury
A blend of Grenache and Carignan. Three years in barrel.
Young colour. The ripe rounded berry fruit of vintage Vin Doux. A streak of tannin. Well integrated alcohol. A youthful balance and fresh fruit.
DOMAINE MONPLEZY
See a previous posting about Anne’s s wines. But she did want me to taste the 2011 rosés, which were of course both vat samples
Plaisirs Rosé, a blend of Grenache, Cinsaut and Syrah.
Pale pink; fresh youthful fruit, a touch of raspberry and good acidity
2011 Plaisirs Interdits Rosé
From the same grape varieties, but with a deeper colour and a fuller riper palate.
HEGARTY CHAMANS
www.hegartychamans.com
A 15 hectare estate, bought ‘in a moment of madness’ by John Hegarty of advertising fame, with his wife Philippa. He is applying his broader vision to his wines, with some success. And he feels very strongly that he wants to put something back into the land, leaving it in a better condition than how they found it. I also liked his concept that wine needs to lose its mystery, but still maintain its magic. The wines are sold by Adnams in Southwold.
2008 No 2, Minervois
70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Cinsaut 12 months in oak
Warm spicy nose with a touch of oak. Quite warm ripe and rich cherry fruit. Nice spice with a lift on the finish.
2008 Open Now, Minervois
50/50 Mourvèdre and Syrah- the latest addition to the range.
Advertising humour comes in to play here The cork sports the words ‘Well Done! congratulating you on the successful manipulation of the corkscrew. 20% of the Syrah is aged in wood, and the rest in tank. Some cherry spice on the nose with ripe fruit and a rounded, textured palate. An appealing entry level wine.
2008 les Chamans Blanc, Minervois
50/50 Roussanne / Marsanne fermented in oak and blended before élevage/ No fining or filtering.
Quite a rounded, textured palate. Well integrated oak with good depth of flavour and layers of nuances. Still quite young. Should develop more intriguing character, with some more bottle age.
2005 No 1 Minervois
60% Syrah and 40% Carignan, blended and aged for 16 months in barrel and then a further year in tank. Good young colour; quite firm leathery notes on both nose and palate. Good fruit. Quite sturdy with tannin and concentration. Dry peppery notes. The warm south with a sturdy edge on the finish.
CHEMINS DE BASSAC
www.cheminsdebassac.com
A 15 hectares estate in the Côtes de Thongue. Isabelle Ducellier was pouring her wines. I liked the white best 2010 Isa blanc, a blend of Roussanne and Viognier, with some rounded fruit and peachy hints, and a touch of honey. Medium weight.
DOMAINE VIRGILE JOLY
2010 le Joly Rouge
A blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Cinsaut
This was drinking deliciously on the day. Medium weight. Fresh ripe fruit on the nose, and lots of ripe cherries on the palate. Easy drinking, just as it is intended to be.
2009 Saturne blanc, Coteaux du Languedoc
Pure Grenache blanc.
Lovely leafy ripe fruit. Textured palate with layers of flavour. Nicely balanced. I prefer Saturne to the oakier Virgile Blanc.
DOMAINE DU TRAGINER
www.traginer.fr
A 7 hectare estate based in Banyuls.
2007 Cuvée Vieille Foudre, Collioure
25% each Grenache, Carignan Mourvèdre and Syrah, with some old vines and ageing in barrel.
Medium colour. Quite a light nose, with leathery notes. Quite a rounded ripe palate, with some weight and ripe leathery fruit. Quite powerfully elegant with a fresh finish.
2005 Cuvée d’Octobre, Collioure
Same percentages of the same four grape varieties as the previous wine, but a later harvest and 14 months in barrel.
Medium colour. Some leathery spice, and more leather, spice and oak on the palate. Medium weight.
2001 Ey Single Vineyard Banyuls
Grenache Noir. Quite a tawny colour. Some rounded nutty fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced and very satisfying.
DOMAINE SINGLA
www.domainesingla.com
A large, 54 hectare property, with vineyards near Vingrau, making a range of different Côtes du Roussillon, with different blends and ageing.
2007 La Pinède, Côtes du Roussillon
A blend of 70% Syrah, 20% Grenache Noir and 10% Carignan, aged in barrel
Quite deep colour. Rounded oaky leathery nose and palate.
2009 La Crinyane, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Crinyane apparently means Carignan in Catalan, and that is the main grape variety, if not the only grape variety in the wine, though of course in theory Côtes du Roussillon Villages should be a blend of grape varieties. 13 months ageing in wood.
Quite a solid dense nose; solid rounded oaky palate, with ripe fruit, and a touch of alcohol on the finish.
2007 Arrels, Côtes du Roussillon Villages.
Predominantly Grenache Noir with a serious ex cellar price A selection of their four best barrels of Grenache Noir, so very limited quantity.
Quite a deep colour. Solid, dense and spicy oak on the nose, and on the palate intense fruit and oak. How will it age? Last week it packed a punch of flavour, but at the moment lacks subtlety for really enjoyable drinking.
Friday, 25 November 2011
LANGUEDOC FIGURES
This figures came my way earlier in the week:
Compare 1980 with 2010:
Thirty years ago there were seven appellations, Fitou, Blanquette de Limoux, Clairette du Languedoc, and the Muscats of Frontignan, Mireval, Lunel and St. Jean de Minervois – now there are 21, or even more if you count each colour as an appellation.
And look how the cooperatives have changed:
In 1980 there were 550 coops, which produced 32 million hectolitres of wine.
In 2010 240 coops produced 12 million hectolitres.
In both instances they account for 70% of the wine production of the Languedoc.
Compare 1980 with 2010:
Thirty years ago there were seven appellations, Fitou, Blanquette de Limoux, Clairette du Languedoc, and the Muscats of Frontignan, Mireval, Lunel and St. Jean de Minervois – now there are 21, or even more if you count each colour as an appellation.
And look how the cooperatives have changed:
In 1980 there were 550 coops, which produced 32 million hectolitres of wine.
In 2010 240 coops produced 12 million hectolitres.
In both instances they account for 70% of the wine production of the Languedoc.
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