Sunday, 15 April 2012
MAS L'ECRITURE - A VERTICAL OF L'ECRITURE
I do enjoy a vertical tasting - it so often illustrates the history of the domaine, showing how the philosophy, as well as work in cellar and vineyard, has evolved with experience. So an opportunity to taste twelve vintages of Pascal Fulla’s L’Ecriture one evening at Vinisud, was not to be spurned. Like Marjorie Gallet at Domaine du Roc des Anges, Pascal wanted to disprove the theory that wine from the Languedoc does not age. Those of us who regularly drink and enjoy the Languedoc of course know that, but not everybody appreciates it. And Pascal was completely vindicated.
Other developments over the years included a shift towards larger barrels, of 600 litres, and the work in the vineyard has changed, so that he has worked organically from 2009. Pascal also wanted to show that it is possible to invest in the future of a wine in the Languedoc, as you would in Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Just one caveat; the tasting took place in the rather small crowded wine bar, Chez Boris, so tasting conditions were far from ideal, and my notes are not as detailed as they might be. But I hope you will deem them worth sharing with you. And Pascal preferred us to taste from old to young.
L’Ecriture is mainly Syrah, with some Mourvèdre and a maximum of 10% Grenache Noir.
1999: Medium colour; elegantly dry leathery nose. Quite firm elegant fruit. Quite structured. Medium weight. Elegant and still quite youthful.
2000: Medium colour, showing a little development. Quite a closed nose; a touch confit. Quite a firm palate, dry and peppery with a firm finish.
2001: Medium colour. A little development. Quite a firm leathery fruit on the nose. An elegant palate with some depth. Firm fruit with good balance.
2002: Medium colour. Quite a rounded nose. Some elegant notes, and a touch leathery. More depth on the palate. Quite supple tannins; quite rounded and elegant. Good balance. Not too intense. Very characteristic of the vintage.
2003: Again very characteristic of the vintage. Quite deep young colour. Quite a solid dense nose. A touch stalky, with some ripe glycerine notes on the palate. Quite fleshy and warm, and quite a firm tannic streak.
2004: This was my favourite, from a beautifully balanced vintage. Medium depth of colour. Young. Attractive spicy notes on the nose. Medium weight palate. Quite rich with very good balance. Quite ripe fruit. Stylish.
2005: Young colour. Quite solid dense, ripe nose, with a touch of oak. Quite ripe, almost sweet, supple fruit. Medium weight, elegant ripe fruit. Quite silky tannins. This was a close runner up to my favourite.
2006: Medium colour. Young. Elegant red fruit, with a touch of spice. Elegant palate with a lovely balance. Finely crafted with some red fruit and supple tannins. Lovely balance. Long harmonious finish. Another contender for my favourite of the line-up.
2007: Youthful colour; medium depth. Quite a firm smoky nose. Satisfying depth on the palate, with good fruit and firm balancing tannins. A touch viandé. Medium weight. Quite powerful in a quiet way.
2008: Deep young colour. A touch viandé on the nose, with some smoky oak. Elegant nuances. Rounded spicy fruit on the palate. A subtle palate, that develops in the glass. Not too substantial, but quite powerful. Rich youthful fruit, a touch of balsamic and a tannic streak. Quite dense and youthful on the finish.
2009: Medium colour. Quite a ripe rounded nose, and on the palate, ripe fruit. Quite rich and dense, with a good tannic balance. Harmonious rounded and youthful. Plenty of future development.
2010: Good colour. Dense ripe nose. Quite a ripe perfumed fruit on the palate. Supple tannins with good body; promises very well with a lot of matière, and some lovely fruit.