Wednesday, 31 January 2018

Saperavi in the Languedoc

One of the things I love about the Languedoc is the element of the unexpected.  You never quite know what you might encounter.   After the Masters of Wine trip to Georgia in 2016, I was interviewed by the Georgian wine magazine Hvino News, and commented that I had yet to meet a wine grower from the Languedoc who wanted to try Saperavi, which is the main grape variety of Georgia, but why not?  

So imagine my surprise last Tuesday when I attended the annual Hallgarten Druitt tasting whose portfolio, without exaggeration, covers the whole world, and there was a Saperavi from the Languedoc.  Hallgarten are the agents for Château de Campuget, one of the long-established producers of the Costières de Nimes and Frank-Lin Dalle was pouring their range of IGP and Costières de Nimes.  And then he produced a Saperavi.  It completely took me by surprise.  Why Saperavi?  ‘It’s for fun; we were looking for something different and we are learning about it’.  They planted two hectares in 2013, on an experimental basis.  It is not yet authorised and is labelled Vin de France.  There are apparently only about 15 hectares altogether in the Languedoc.  Frank-Lin didn't know who else has it, and surfing the net failed to produce any answers.   Can anyone out there help?

So, what did it taste like?  I have enjoyed the peppery flavours of Saperavi on a couple of visits to Georgia, and I was not disappointed by this example.  It is fermented and vinified in tank, so does not see any oak and the flavours were very fresh.  The colour is bright and deep, with some solid perfumed fruit on the nose, with ripe berry fruit and a firm streak of tannin on the palate, and a fresh finish.   I thought it a very convincing start.  For this first vintage, they made just 3000 bottles and it is not yet commercially available, but well worth a mention for curiosity’s sake. 


Miquel said...

How long on the skins? I've had a few in Georgia that were direct press and yet still darker than typical Grenache in Spain yet still full of flavor; delicate even. For the Georgians, where lengthy contact was the norm, they're backing off a bit given the intensity of the grape so I'm curious what someone in a more "nuanced region" sees as being ideal in terms of maceration for the grape?

Cheers and fine discover,


Rosemary George MW said...

I have to admit that I didn't ask that question, but a good point. I will try and find out.

Rosemary George MW said...

A very prompt reply back from Frank-Lin - the answer is two weeks.

Rosemary George MW said...

And two pigeages every day