Wednesday, 22 April 2020

Domaine de Centernach




What takes a Burgundian to Roussillon?   The short answer is a love of vintage port.   Paul Meunier was fascinated by port, and that led him to do a stage in Maury. And you could describe Maury as France’s answer to port, as the production process is pretty much the same. 

After that first visit as a stagiaire in 2009, Paul returned regularly to the region for holidays, and then bought vineyards and took over a cellar in the village of St Arnac in 2014.    He now produces a delicious range of wines, both vin sec and vin doux.   And I was delighted to discover that one of my local wine shops in London, The Good Wine Shop in Chiswick, had discovered Paul’s wine before me.    They are currently sold out of his white wine, a Côtes du Roussillon, based on Macabeo as well as some Grenache Gris and Grenache blanc, with a drop of Muscat à petits grains, which was quite delicious ….and they have promised to let me know when it is back in stock.

Meanwhile they do have a wine from Paul’s very first vintage, a Côtes du Roussillon Villages, from a specific vineyard, Couillades d’en Paillol, at £26.00.  Carignan, from vines planted in the 1950s,  is the main component with some Grenache Noir and some Syrah.   The wine has a deep young colour, with some rounded red berry fruit on the nose, with notes of cherry liqueur, reminiscent of Grenache.  On the palate it is ripe, but not heavy; there is warming fruit, balanced with some nicely integrated tannins and a certain rustic sturdiness from the predominance of Carignan, combined with a satisfying depth of flavour. A long fresh finish.   Drinking beautifully now, but far from the end of its life.   The alcohol at 13.5°is nicely restrained.   

And they are also selling Paul's answer to a fruity Ruby port, namely Maury Grenat.  

While their shops are obviously closed at the moment, The Good Wine Shop is continuing to operate a mail order business.





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