Saturday, 26 July 2014

Château Haut Blanville

To Château Haut Blanville, which was created by Bernard and Beatrice Nivollet.  Bernard’s  vineyards are scattered around the commune of St. Pargoire; some are Grès de Montpellier;  some are simple Languedoc and some Pays du Vicomte d’Aumelas.    The first vineyards were bought in 1997, and they now have 30 hectares of vines altogether, and made their first wine in 1998.

It was a wonderful autumn day, with brilliant sunshine, a perfect morning to look at vineyards, and Bernard knows his vineyards intimately.  There were carpets of golden Syrah, and russet-coloured Carignan leaves. They have nearly finished building a new cellar in the middle of one plot of vines.  We saw old Grenache with gnarled trunks; there was a view of Sète with the sparkling Mediterranean and in the other direction a view of the Pyrenees, with the Canigou.  The soil varies, some is very stony; some much sandier or with more clay; some red with iron, some more yellow.  Bernard likes to keep each plot of vine separate in the cellar, and in the bottle; he feel that each vineyard is quite distinctive and if you blend it, you dilute it.

We tasted in the barrel cellar attached  to the actucal building that is the Château de Haut Blanville, which they no longer own.

2012 Pays de la Vicomte d’Aumelas
Chardonnay and Viognier 45% each; Sauvignon and Grenache Blanc 5% each.  Fermented in barrique.  Nine months élevage with regular bâtonnage.  Quite a golden colour.  Quite a buttery nose, the Chardonnay seemed to dominate the nose, with some acidity on the palate.  Quite textured, with a firm finish.  Quite rich and full-bodied.  Not very Midi.

2008 Black Pearl, Pays de la Vicomte d’Aumelas.
Cabernet Sauvignon with 10 – 20% Syrah.  Deep colour. Rich cassis nose and on the palate, quite firm tannins.  Some vanilla from the oak.  Rich and concentrated.  Needs time.

2008 Clos des Poètes
From Mourvèdre, grown on very stony soil, making for minerality in the wine.  Élevage in old barriques.  This vineyard is close enough to the sea to get some maritime influence, which Mourvèdre enjoys.    The nose was not very forthcoming initially, but the palate was quite rich and mouth filling, with an elegant finish.  It was quite different from Bandol, with more weight.

2008 Plénitude
Mainly Grenache.  Vines planted in 1970, on very stony soil on the plateau des Pérals.  Deep colour; some liqueur cherry notes on the nose.  Quite leathery plate, with some cherry fruit and a steak of minerality.  Firm tannins.  With a fresh finish.  Lots of nuances as it develops in the glass.  They don’t make this wine every year as Mourvèdre can be tricky, and stop ripening, as it did in 2013.

2009 Grande Cuvée, Grès de Montpellier
85% Syrah, with a little Carignan, Grenache and Mourvèdre.  A selection of barrels. This is a blend,  rather than from a specific vineyard. Deep colour; firm nose, with a rich peppery palate.  Rich and concentrated, with peppery black fruit on the palate.  A tannic streak.  Youthful and rich.

2009 Clos des Légendes, Grès de Montpellier
About 90% Syrah, with some Mourvèdre and Grenache.  Two years in new wood.  Bernard favours the cooper, Radoux, for his barrels.  I did find the oak on this wine rather intense and overwhelming.  The palate is very solid and young.   And the flavour not very Languedocien.  Though you could not complain that it was not well made.  It was just not what you expect from the Midi.

2006 Clos des Légendes, Grès de Montpellier
Bernard opened this to show how the wine aged.  The colour is deep and young, and the palate dense and confit with solid black fruit.  In fact it was still very youthful, concentrated and dense. Though only a modest 13.5˚

And we finished with a vat sample of Syrah, grown on bauxite.  It was elegant and fresh with some perfumed fruit and a touch of pepper.

So to sum up, some characterful wines.  My reservation is that some of the wines had too much oak for my taste, but nonetheless an estate with potential.  


Sunday, 20 July 2014

Printemps des Vignerons

An email from Graeme Angus of Domaine les Trois Terres alerted me to this wine festival, a gathering of twenty or so organic or biodynamic wine growers at Domaine de la Tour outside Nébian, organised by Céline Beauquel from Clos Romain in Cabrières.     The core of the wine growers came from the Languedoc, but there were also people from Chablis, Gaillac, and other regions.  And the tasting space was in the enormous cellar at Domaine de la Tour.  This is the Languedoc at its most traditional, with a backdrop of huge foudres, and old implements decorating the cellar walls.    I had a great afternoon, tasting a couple of more familiar estates, and making some new discoveries.

The familiar included:
Domaine les Trois Terres:
2011 Le Saut du Diable, a blend of Grenache and Carignan- 10.00€.  A lovely combination of rich ripe fruit, with a fresh mineral finish. 

2010 la Minérale, mainly Syrah, from St. Jean de la Blaquière and Cabrières with some Cinsaut and Grenache, aged in barrel.  Firm, sturdy,  tight knit,  peppery, youthful, with a mineral note on the finish.

And a new wine, 2012 Cuvée Moderne – 9.00€  Syrah and Grenache from Cabrières given a short maceration for early drinking.  Graeme described this as his retro cuvée.  Immediately ripe rounded and spicy with supple tannins and a sappy quality.  And quite simply a jolly nice drink.

There were some lovely wines from Clos Romain
Parenthèse 2012 – 10.00 - Lovely fresh fruit, spicy and elegant

2011 Patience – 12.00€ - Firm fruit on the nose, with a combination of concentration and elegance on the palate

2012 Phidias – 15.00€ - Quite a firm nose, but with fresh ripe black fruit on the palate.  Medium weight.

Catherine le Conte des Floris was pouring three wines:
2012 Arès Blanc – 15.00€ - Dry honey and firm acidity.  Medium weight palate.  Notes of fennel and other herbs.  Very intriguing.

2012 Six Rats Noirs – I completely misheard this and thought she said Syrah Noir – why was she specifying the colour I wondered.  Of course this is Daniel’s way of conveying that the grape variety is Syrah.  Quite solid and dense, with firm fruit and a certain confit note on the finish.  11.00€

2012 Villefranchien – 16.00€  - Mainly Grenache and just bottled.  Medium colour.  A restrained nose.  Very elegant fruit.  Subtle and understated.  Should develop well in bottle. 

At the barrel next to Catherine there was Domaine Jorel from Maury.     I have a vivid memory of visiting Manuel Jorel’s  vineyards on a bright winter’s morning a few years ago. The scenery is breathtaking and dramatic.

2012 Bande de Gypse – 8.00€  - The soil is mainly gypsum, calcaire.   A blend of seven grape varieties – here goes:  Torbato, Malvoisie, Macabeu, Carignan Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Gris and Muscat d’Aléxandrie, with nine months élevage in old wood.    The wine was lightly resinous on the nose, with some intriguing fruit on the palate.  Quite firm with good acidity and a slightly earthy finish.

2012 Rosé Esquisse d’Agly from Grenache Gris had good acidity with a rustic note 
I really like the2011 Cuvée 2nde – 7.00€ a Côtes Catalanes, from Syrah grown on granite.  Firm peppery nose and palate, after a year in wood.  Tight knit with fresh fruit.   Good structure and a fresh note on the finish.

2008 Côtes du Roussillon Villages  - 14.00
A blend of Syrah, with some Grenache and Carignan.  Deep colour.  Solid dense leathery fruit on nose and palate.  Quite a firm sturdy youthful tannic palate.

And now for some unfamiliar.   Le Petit Domaine in Montpeyroux was completely new to me, but as chance would have it, I had a second opportunity to taste Aurélien Petit’s wines at the Montpeyroux fete a week later.  And very good they were too.  See my post about the  Montpeyroux fête

Domaine Mamaruta at Leucate in Fitou.
2013 Constellation, Vin de France – 12.00€  - An intriguing blend of Macabeu, Grenache Gris, and Carignan Blanc.  Fermented and aged in oak for seven months.   Light colour.   Quite a leesy nose.  Notes of fennel.  Very good acidity and minerality.   And there was fresh youthful Fitou, Cacahuète, with rich structured fruit.

Les Vignes Rouges makes IGP Cévennes near Alès.   The family vines, eight hectares, were taken out of the cooperative in 2008.  There was a range of reds.  Clémence 2012 – 5.80€ - was fresh and perfumed, and aged in vat.  It is a blend of 70 % Carignan, made by maceration carbonique,  with equal parts of Syrah and Grenache.  Next came  Pimprenelle; then Aphyllante with some rich fruit and tannin; Noctumbule which was mainly Syrah with perfumed fruit and supple tannins, and le Temps d’un été, a pure Grenache aged in vat with some ripe balsamic notes.

Les Sabots d‘Hélène are in the Corbières at Feuilla.  There were three red wines, Libertoire, Alternapif and Percepteur,  a pure Carignan given 24 months ageing in oak, which was rich dense and sturdy.  And wonderfully characterful.

Domaine des Amiel, not to be confused with Mas Amiel in Maury.   The Amiel family make wine in Montblanc, a village between Beziers and Pézenas, from 9 hectares.  A Coural after a great grandfather, Coural was his nickname, is a blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, with fresh ripe easy fruit, for 7.00€    A l’Ouest temporarily overturned my prejudices about Merlot in the Midi. It  was ripe and plumy without being confit,  with a refreshing streak of tannin.

And then I allowed myself a little deviation to Chablis, for Olivier de Moor’s   2012 which had fresh minerality and good flinty acidity.    All in all, a good afternoon. 

Tuesday, 15 July 2014

Le Grand St. Jean or the Faugères fête.

I always enjoy this village fête  It is wonderfully animated with plenty of wine to taste and vignerons to talk to.  I realise that this year I was not that assiduous about tasting.  I think I was having too much fun chatting.  The main street, la Grande Rue, is a bit like Piccadilly Circus.  If I stood in the middle of it for long enough, I felt I would meet everyone I knew in the Languedoc.   It also poses a bit of an obstacle course; there were babies in buggies and dogs on leads and groups of friends stopping for a chat or a taste.  And there was not just wine.  I was tempted by strings of pink garlic, by wholemeal loaves baked in an old fashioned bread oven, by ginger syrup.  The village historian, Claude Caumette, was there selling his books;  a local artist had some lovely water colours and sketches, and the distiller from Autignac was displaying his wares, a fragrant Marc de Muscat and a rich Esprit de Bière as well as the classic Fine de Faugères.    And the various confréries, not just that of Faugères, processed down the street. 

I had a quick taste of Domaine de Sarabande’s fresh dry rosé, which made a refreshing rince-bouche.  And Simon Coulshaw from Domaine des Trinites had just bottled his 2013 le Portail – he said it was infanticide to taste it, but nonetheless you could see the potential with some firm liquorice fruit and minerality.  The blend is slightly different from the previous vintage with 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, as opposed to 2012 which had 60% Syrah, but with 25% Grenache, 10% Carignan and 5% Mourvèdre.

Brigitte Chevalier from Domaine de Cebene was also pouring St. Martin d’Agel’s 2013 le Pélerin, which had some appealing red fruit, with a touch of liquorice and a fresh finish.   I much preferred it to the 2012 of last year – definite progress has been made there.   And Brigitte has moved into her new cellar outside Faugères, so we made plans for me to come and admire it, even though she still has no electricity ….

Jérôme Py of Domaine du Causse Noir was the newcomer to the occasion, pouring his first vintage, the 2011.  If wines take on the character of their maker, this is a classic example.  Jérôme is solid and stocky, and so are his wines, rich and characterful, with leathery notes.  And his 2013 rosé has an intriguing herbal note.

And then we adjourned to the quiet haven of Mas d’Alezon’s tasting caveau by the church, where Alix Roque was pouring Domaine de Clovallon as well as Faugères.   The 2013 Pinot Noir from Domaine de Clovallon was deliciously refreshing and fragrant with fresh raspberry fruit balanced by some backbone.  And then it was time for lunch!

Friday, 11 July 2014

L’Atelier des Vignerons

Good wine shops or cavistes are few and far between in wine areas.    The assumption is that you go and buy at the cellar door.   But the people who live in the lovely town of Limoux are fortunate for they have the Atelier des Vignerons, which is run by Laurence Turetti.   I was in Limoux last week, so it was a good opportunity to pop in and say hallo.  The shop is tucked into a corner of the main square of Limoux, which is one of my favourite places to watch the world go by.  There are several cafés and restaurants and at this time of year stalls selling melons, peaches and apricots.  

Laurence has a fine selection of wines of the Languedoc, but obviously concentrates on what is closest to home, with a particularly good range of Limoux and Malepère, but with lots else besides to tempt.  It is a lovely shop to browse around, with the wines arranged by appellation, and she is there to offer advice.    She enthused about the region. ‘I am always finding new wines that I want to buy, but I just don’t have enough room to stock everything’.    So what is new? I asked.   

One suggestion was 2012 Oufti, a delicious Fitou from Mas des Caprices in Leucate.  That is a completely unknown name to me.  Apparently Mireille and Pierre Mann come from Belgium and Oufti, an anagram of Fitou, is a Belgium interjection of surprise or relief, maybe translating as Wow! or Phew!   And the wine is delicious, with some lovely fresh peppery fruit, balanced by that firm streak of tannin that is characteristic of Fitou.  It has a slightly rugged note, which you expect with Fitou, and is nicely balanced, and still youthful, with plenty of potential.   So thank you, Laurence.  A great recommendation.   So if anyone happens to be in Limoux, do pop in. 

L’Atelier des Vignerons
2 Place de la République
11300 Limoux
Tel : 04 68 20 12 42

Monday, 7 July 2014

The Terrasses du Larzac – a walk through the vineyards.

For anyone who enjoys the wines of the Languedoc, the annual ballade vigneronne of the Terrasses du Larzac is a must.  This year it was focused on the village of Pégairolles de l’Escalette, which enjoys some of the most dramatic scenery of the whole of the Languedoc.  If you drive south down the A75 motorway from Millau, there is a moment when you come over the pass, the Col de l’Escalette and you have the Languedoc at your feet.  Pégairolles is the first village after that pass, and the vineyards are on steep hillsides to the west of the motorway.  I’ve attempted a few photographs, but they simply do not do justice to the grandeur of the scenery. 

The producers of the Terrasses du Larzac were in festive mood as they have achieved the status of an independent appellation, without any reference to Coteaux du Languedoc or Languedoc.  Depending on when the minister signs the final decree, this should be for the 2014 vintage.    They are fairly optimistic.  The mayor of Pégairolles is a deputy, and his political colours are the same as the appropriate minister …… the out-going president of the syndicat, Vincent Goumard from Cal Demoura is undoubtedly exiting on a high note, and his place will be ably filled by Marie Chauffray from Réserve d’O. 

The walk took the usual format – six stages, with six courses and a total of 44 wines to try.  Don’t worry: I am not going to inflict 44 tasting notes on you, but just a handful of highlights.  However, it is true to say that there is a very high standard of overall quality in the Terrasses du Larzac, defined by the essential freshness of wine that comes from cooler vineyards at higher altitudes. 

The first stage for the mise en bouche included tastes of all three colours, and the more  solid accompaniment was a pink wine jelly with some melon and water melon.  It was quite refreshing, but really a bit sweet for the wines.  And the walk initially was through olives groves and woods.   Evidently a lot of work had been done to create the paths, removing obstacles and even at one point even putting temporary bridges over a small river.  Apparently there are plans to keep the path  open, making it a more permanent oeno-tourist attraction.  That would be a great idea. 

The new owners of Mas Conscience were pouring L’In Blanc, a blend of Grenache Blanc, Vermentino and Roussanne, with a touch of Viognier.  Martine and Jean-Luc Quinquarlet of  La Bastide aux Oliviers were offering Pierre et Bastien 2012Bastien was their son who died far too young, and Pierre is a good friend.  It was a wonderful rich glass of wine, with ripe fruit and tapenade and well-integrated oak, after 14 months in barrel.  The price is 25€ -' we’ve never sold a wine for that price before', admitted Jean-Luc.    Olivier Bellet from Clos Rivieral was offering his 2013 Rosé Les Fontanilles, which was mainly Cinsaut with some Syrah and Grenache and was delicate and elegant, with a fresh dry finish.

At the next étape, with a vegetable flan for sustenance, there were a couple of white wines that caught my attention.  La Jasse Castel in Montpeyroux was showing their 2013 L’Egrisée Blanc  made from Grenache blanc, with some Carignan and Roussanne, from vineyards at 400 metres, and aged  on lees, so that it had some appealing minerality balanced with white blossom and good acidity, for 12.50€  And Domaine du Dausso, an estate that I have yet to visit was pouring L’Inattendu blanc, a blend of 95% Vermentino with a touch of Roussanne, with some very appealing herbal fruit on both nose and palate, balanced by fresh acidity, and for just 8.90€ a bottle.

On  through vineyards and past stone walls and capitelles and more great scenery for an effiloché de canard, which  might best be described as a bit of shredded duck with some hints of orange.   Wines to go with it included Graeme Angus’s Les Trois Terres 2011 Saut du Diable, which was ripe and rounded with a fresh finish – classic Terrasses du Larzac.  We then tried Jean-Baptiste Granier's 2012 Les Vignes Oubliees with fresh spice, followed by Rémi Duchemin’s Plan de l’Homme Habilis. That is a blend of Grenache with Syrah and Carignan and is ripe and spicy and refreshingly unoaked.   All three were lovely wines, and there were others.

The meat course, a serious chunk of beef filet, was accompanied by several serious bottles.    2011 Domaine Montcalmès was elegant and fresh; Mas Séranne  Clos des Immortelles 2012 had some lovely peppery fruit – it comes from all five red varieties, but mainly Syrah and Carignan.  2011 les Etats d’Ame from Mas Jullien was elegantly smoky and stylish, as one would expect from Olivier Jullien.  Isabelle and Vincent Goumard of Cal Demoura were pouring 2012 l’Infidèle which was nicely rounded and mineral with a touch of oak.   Délphine Rousseau and Julien Zernott from Domaine du Pas de l’Escalette were there with Grand Pas 2010.  This is of course very much their home patch.  And Olivier Jeantet from Mas Haut Buis was showing Costa Caoude.  The name may imply heat, but the wine had a fresh finish.

A cool track along a small river took us to the road that led into Pégairolles which is a pretty circulade village.  In the place de l’Eglise we found the cheese course, with plenty of red wines to go with it.   Guilhem Dardé of Mas des Chimeres was offering 2011 Nuit Grave, mainly Syrah with some Grenache and Mourvèdre with touch of tapenade and some good fruit.   

Jérémie Depierre from Domaine la Peira was pouring 2011 Les Obrières, a blend of Cinsaut and Carignan with a little Mourvèdre and Grenache and unusually no Syrah, with some lovely fruit, with spice and herbs of the  garrigues, and supple tannins, for 12€.  Hissez O from La Réserve d’O was rounded and ripe, and Gavin Crisfield’s  La Traversée 2011 was perfumed, fresh and elegant.

The route took us round pass the château, allowing us the chance to admire an elegant galleried courtyard.  I wasn’t in the mood for dessert but there were some lovely red wines instead, but first Pascal Dalier from Domaine de Joncas was offering his rosé, 2013 Nebla, which was refreshing with strawberry fruit and acidity.   

There was a new estate, Domaine de l’Argenteille from St. Saturnin.  Roger Jeanjean explained that he has absolutely nothing to do with the much better known Jeanjean family.  His father had vines in St. Saturnin,  as did his uncle who had been the first director of the coop of St. Saturnin until 1985.  And his 2012 Garric was a blend of equal parts of Syrah, Mourvèdre and old Carignan with 10% Grenache, with a touch of oak.  It was nicely made with a good fruit and a hint of tapenade, showing some ageing potential.  

Béatrice Fillon from Clos du Serres was pouring 2012 Blaca which was quite rich and powerful with some tapenade and a fresh finish.  Philippe Gros from Domaine Fabregous was showing the most mature wine of the tasting, 2008 Sentier Botanique which was rounded and harmonious with a touch of spice and a satisfying note of maturity.  It made a great finale to the occasion.     

Sunday, 6 July 2014

Back in the Languedoc

One of the first things we do when we arrive at our house, especially after a 982 mile drive from London, is chose some wine for dinner.  Imagine our panic when the key to what passes as our cellar, an insulated walk-in cupboard in our garage, was not in its usual place, in the lock.   Fortunately a spare was found; we weren’t even sure that we had one.   And then I noticed empty spaces in the wine rack and one or two boxes out of place.  Further investigation revealed a garage door that was not properly locked.   It seems that our thieves have a sweet tooth.  They had gone for the part of the wine rack with dessert wines, and they seemed to have good taste.  Gone were bottles of La Croix Belle’s  Solenque and Rives Blanques' Lagamas d’Aur, not to mention a rare bottle of Marie-Thérèse Chappaz’s dessert wine from the Valais.  And for good measure they had helped themselves to a bottle of Pineau de Charente, given to us by friends from Cognac, leaving the empty box by the cellar door.   And further investigation revealed that they also liked champagne, but not Blanquette, and appreciated port………

Affronted at their audacity, and relieved that our thieves were obviously on foot, and not cleared out the cellar, we needed some liquid consolation.   The first bottle was 2010 la Rupture from Domaine Turner Pageot.  This is one of the best, if not the best Sauvignon from the Languedoc.  It has wonderful minerality and great texture and mouth feel, with a fine balance of acidity and fruit, and is packed with character.  A delicious glass of wine.

And our red choice was a random bottle of 2008 Borie de Maurel, Belle de Nuit from the Minervois, produced by Michel Escande in Félines-Minervois.   It was drinking beautifully, with some ripe fruit and a fresh finish, despite the 14.5˚ alcohol.  There was a touch of tapenade and a touch of spice and some and harmonious tannins.  It was all in balance.

It is amazing how a glass or two of good wine helps soothe ruffled feathers.   We felt much better.    And now to organise a better lock to the cellar door. 

Wednesday, 2 July 2014

Languedoc at the London Wine Fair

The big Languedoc event at the London Wine Fair was the tasting of the winning Top 100 Wines.   See my previous post.  But there were other delights on smaller stands.  A new event this year was Esoterica, which grouped together a wonderfully eclectic collection of small importers and wine merchants, people who would not normally want to exhibit at the fair, but were able to,  thanks to the simplicity of the presentation - a table and some bottles and glasses.  There was a real buzz of excitement.   I found myself tasting wines from Greece and Long Island, but there were also some Languedoc highlights. Expression du Terroir, which is an arm of Borough Wines, in London N16 has some interesting Languedoc offering, C de Centeilles, Clos du Serres, Virgile Joly and Turner Pageot.  However, I passed these by as I was seeking out the unfamiliar at this point.

However I did stop to taste Domaine la Tour Vieille with Christine Campadieu wines on the Yapp Bros stand.   She and her partner Vincent make lovely Collioure and Banyuls that I had not tasted for a while.

2012 Collioure Blanc les Canadells, a blend of Grenache Blanc, with 10% each of Rolle, Marsanne and Roussanne.   Quite a closed young nose.  Not as expressive as some vintages, but with some lovely potential on the palate.  Rounded fruit and textured palate.   It would benefit from a little more bottle age.

2012 Collioure, la Pinède
Grenache with some Carignan aged in small barrel.  Ripe spice on both nose and palate, with the warmth of Roussillon.  Ripe and young with plenty of potential

2012 Collioure Puig Oriol
70% Syrah with Grenache.   Quite a contrast.  More structured, concentrated and peppery.  Quite dense firm ripe fruit. Again with ageing potential.

Banyuls Reserve
Aged in bonbons , with an average age of five or six years.  Some appealing rich raisiny fruit.  Rich and intense with ripe fruit and quite delicious.  It was in fact my finale to the fair.

And earlier in the morning I had passed by Chateau d’Anglès for a quick update with Eric and Vianney Fabre.  I had missed the la Clape walk this year, so wanted a catch up.   They are very pleased with their 2013s, describing it as a fantastic vintage.  The cool nights and the late harvest have kept the aromas in the grapes.  They began picking in mid-September finishing at the end of October.

2011 La Clape Blanc, Classique.
Sappy fresh acidity and some weight.  Nice texture.   Very harmonious and rounded. 

2011 Grand Vin Blanc
More weight, with the influence of oak.  Rounded, herbal hints and more depth.  Again very satisfying mouth feel.

2013 Rosé Classique.
Pale colour.  Youthful and fresh, but still a touch amylic, but that will disappear in a month or so.   Elegant with sufficient weight to make it a food rosé.

2010 Classique red
Syrah and Grenache with a little Mourvèdre.  Rounded ripe warm fruit, with restraint.

2009 Grand Vin.  
Quite firm and structured on the nose, and on the palate very good depth of flavour, with ripe fruit.  Again warmth, but with restraint.  More weight and body than the Classique, but not heavy.   You can sense the bordelais touch to Eric’s wines.